Best Primer for Furniture

Depending on the piece you are painting, priming the furniture might be an important step to take before paint.

This post gives all the details on when you need to prime wood furniture before painting, the different types of furniture primer, and the pros and cons to each type of primer for furniture.

Do I need to prime furniture before painting? It’s such a difficult question to answer in one definitive way. However, I will share EVERYTHING you need to know to make the right decision on whether you need to prime your wood furniture before painting and the best primer for furniture to choose if you do need to prime.

These primers are the best for painting furniture when you need to cover up stains, odors, or wood bleed through.

After reading this post, it might be helpful to read this step by step guide on how to paint furniture and this post which breaks down the different types of paints you can use on furniture.

This post contains affiliate links. You can read my full disclosure policy here.

Priming Wood Furniture

If you are painting over wood furniture, you’ll want to check on a couple of things to decide if you need to prime. You should always prime if:

  • The wood is mahogany, cherry, or has visible knots.
  • There are stains, water rings, or odors you aren’t able to get off the piece when cleaning.
  • The clearcoat finish is missing or very damaged in places. (If this is the case, primer is needed because the raw wood will bleed through in those places if primer is not used.)
  • You are painting over a previously painted piece that is chipping or peeling.

Yes, even if you are using an All in One Furniture paint, you still need to prime if you have any of the issues listed above! See more details on this in the FAQ section at the bottom of this post.

when to prime wood furniture important tips for priming before painting

Priming Previously Painted Furniture

Personally, I always prime a previously painted piece that I’ve found. Without knowing how well the person prepped before painting, when I prime it, I can make sure the new finish sticks. Before priming, make sure to sand away any peeling or flaking paint with a light sanding with 180-220 grit sandpaper.

If your piece is peeling a lot, lightly sand it, and then use this Zinsser Peel-Stop Primer. I’ve used this on one piece of furniture and on my exterior window trim with excellent results. It really helps to stop peeling and flaking on previously painted pieces!

Purpose of Primer on Furniture

Using primer on your furniture project could help in a few different ways. It helps with adhesion, stain blocking and paint coverage.

  • Adhesion: Primer is formulated differently than paint which allows to it grip to many different surfaces very well. Using primer will help you to avoid peeling, flaking or chipping paint down the road. If you are painting laminate furniture (or IKEA furniture), primer is needed for the reason of adhesion. Note: if you lightly sand your piece of furniture before painting, you will probably be just fine and won’t need to use primer for adhesion purposes.
  • Stain Blocking: Primer will block many different stains (and smells) that would otherwise seep through regular paint. Smoke stains, water stains, mold, odor, wood stains (called tannins) or oil stains will show through paint in a matter of days. Using the correct type of primer can block all of these stains from showing through your paint. (More on the type of primer to use for different stains below.)
  • Paint Coverage: Using primer will help you to use less coats of paint because it covers up dark colors and it acts as a sealer for porous surfaces that would otherwise absorb the paint. Primer is especially beneficial if you are painting something dark (like wood cabinets, for example) a light color like white. Primer is cheaper than furniture paint, so this will save you money as well.

It’s possible that you might not need to prime if you aren’t concerned about any of the reasons listed above.

Types of Primer for Furniture

There are three main types of primer that can be used on furniture.

  • Oil-Based Primer – Covers stains, smells, and wood tannin bleed through.
  • Shellac-Based Primer (water clean up) – Comes in clear and white and also blocks odors and most stains.
  • Water-Based Primer – Usually more of a general use primer. Does not cover stains or wood tannins, but does help with adhesion and paint coverage.
  • Water/Oil Blend Primer – A primer that is water-based but has many of the benefits of oil-based primer.

Oil-Based Primer for Furniture

The two types of oil-based primer that I prefer to use on furniture are Kilz Oil-Based Primer and Zinsser Cover Stain Oil-Based Primer. They are both very similar in their pros and cons which you can find in the table below.

cover stain oil based primer for use on furniture
ProsCons
Great adhesion – sticks to most surfaces wellStrong odor
Covers all stains and odorsClean up with mineral spirits
Can use water-based or oil-based paint over it
Can be tinted to a darker color if needed

Shellac-Based Primer for Furniture

Zinsser B-I-N Shellac Primer comes in white (tintable) or clear. It can be cleaned up with water but gives more stain-blocking or sealing power than a traditional water-based primer. I always keep a quart or gallon of this handy for when I want to prime furniture. It works really well for almost every type of furniture.

clear shellac primer for use on painted furniture
ProsCons
Easy water clean upSlightly strong odor (not as strong as oil-based primer though)
Seals most stains and odorsMore expensive than traditional water-based
Comes in clear and white (tintable)
Can use water-based or oil-based paint over it
painted mahogany dresser using primer clear shellac to distress to natural wood

If I plan to distress a piece of furniture and I need to primer, I always use Zinsser Clear Shellac Primer. I used it on this dresser because it was a mahogany dresser. Because I wanted to slightly distress the finish, the clear primer was perfect to cover the wood bleed through but also to distress down to the wood.

Water-Based Primer for Furniture

This type of primer is great for giving paint a little extra sticking power and helping to make sure your paint stays adhered to the surface for many years to come. Zinsser 1-2-3 Primer and Kilz 2 All-Purpose Primer are the two water-based primers I’ve used on furniture with success when I just need some extra adhesion.

primer to use when painting furniture
ProsCons
Easy water clean upDoesn’t always hide all tannin or stain bleed through
Low odor
Great adhesion to surface
Can be tinted to darker color
Cheapest primer option

Water/Oil Based Blend Primer

Paint manufacturers are coming up with so many new blends of paint and primer and have the positive benefits of oil-based paints in a water-based formula. Zinsser Smart Prime is an example of this perfect blend. This is honestly my favorite primer for furniture, but it can be hard to find in stores. So, when I buy a quart on Amazon and have it handy, I always choose to use this primer.

primer to use when painting wood furniture
ProsCons
Easy water clean upMore expensive than water-based primer
Blocks most stains and bleed through
Low odor

The Best Primer for Furniture

The best furniture primer really depends on your specific project. I’ve found that Zinsser Smart Prime and Zinsser B-I-N Shellac Primer are the best choices for priming furniture because they cover priming needs for most pieces.

However, because they are more expensive, if you don’t need that extra stain coverage they offer, it might be a better idea to just use cheaper water-based primer. And remember, sometimes you don’t even need to prime your furniture at all!

Frequently Asked Questions

Do you need to primer before All in One Paint?

A lot of specialty furniture paint companies have come out with “all in one” furniture paint. Basically, this paint does not generally need primer or a top coat for use on furniture. However, you still need a primer when using all in one paint if you are painting over a wood that bleeds (mahogany or cherry are the most commonly used in furniture), have wood knots or unfinished wood, or are covering up oil stains or water stains. In most cases, you’ll need to use one of the “oil” or shellac based primers described above.

Can you use water based paints over oil based primer?

Yes, you can generally use water based paint over oil based primer, but always make sure to check the label on the primer first. For those that are compatible with water based paints, it will say so right on the can. All of the primers I’ve listed in this post ARE compatible with water based paints.

A quick note: It is not recommended to use water based paint over oil based paint. The water based paint will not adhere well to the oil based paint. However, primers are formulated differently which is why it’s usually safe to use water-based paint over most types of oil-based primer.

Looking for more information on refinishing furniture? Start Here.

Jenny at Refresh Living (dev.refreshliving.com)

Post by Jenny Leads

Jenny is the voice behind Refresh Living. She has a passion for helping people to create a home they love without spending a lot of money.

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13 Comments

  1. Hi Jenny, love your blog, I’ve found so many answers to my diy questions. I’m wondering if you can give me some advice about priming. I picked up two solid wood dressers today that appear to maybe have some kind of stain, but a very matte finish to them. I’d like to apply a thinned-out milk paint to them to act as more of a stain than a full coverage (I’d still like to see the wood grain). There are a few stains on the tops of them and I’m wondering if I prime them with the clear shellac, then apply my milk paint stain, will it stick well? Also, do you prime, then sand, then paint? Thank you for any advice you can give!

    1. Hi Jenn! Thanks for your kind words. I’m glad you found some helpful ideas! Great question – I love the look of milk paint used as a stain, but I find it so hard to find pieces that are truly unfinished. I’m guessing that the dressers have some sort of finish on them, which would mean that applying a thinned out milk paint probably wouldn’t actually penetrate the wood (even it is a matte finish). Now, if it doesn’t have a finish and does only have a stain, a milk paint wash should work. Is there a place you could try a little test spot on the dresser that no one would see?

      If you do prime with a shellac, the paint will definitely not absorb into the wood. However, you could prime, paint, and then sand away places to reveal the wood underneath. I would suggest using the bonding agent with the milk paint if you are painting over shellac. That will ensure that it bonds well, but you’ll still be able to distress and sand away the paint in places to show the wood. And yes, I usually sand after priming very lightly (with 220 grit sandpaper) just as an extra step to help with bonding. I hope this was helpful! Feel free to email me if you have other questions! jenny@refreshliving.net Good luck and have fun on your project!

      1. Thanks for the reply! So if I’m understanding correctly, I’m probably going to end up with more of a solid look than what I was originally thinking, since I definitely need to prime with the stains on it (bought the Zinsser clear one today). I’ll take my chances and see how it turns out. Thanks again 😉

  2. Hi Jenny,
    I am new to painting. I bought an vintage wooden dresser for my daughter’s room. I would like to paint it black, a little bit on the shiny side. Would you kindly give me a step by step process, including what materials-supplies to buy to complete this project?
    I look forward to your feedback.

    Thank you for your help.
    Kind Regards,
    Lorelie

    1. Hi Lorelie! Sounds like a fun project. I would recommend an acrylic paint like General Finishes. This link is for a pint, which should be just enough for an average sized dresser. Or, they also have quarts. If you think you might want to paint anything else that same color, I’d just get the quart (it’s a better deal for the amount.) After painting, to get a slight shine, and to protect the surface as well, I’d give it an acrylic topcoat. Satin will give it a slightly shiny look. Here is a product that General Finishes makes and the one I use. This is a similar product that I’ve used as well, and it’s about half the cost!

      Then, I would follow these tips for preparing the piece before painting. You’ll probably need 2-3 coats of paint, and you’ll want to sand in between coats, but not after the last coat. After it has dried, you’ll put on the top coat. Two coats should be plenty. Let me know if you have any other questions. Good luck on your piece!

  3. I am in the process of painting a wooden desk. I used Zinsser primer but I have some tannin bleed through. Can I now use Zinsser shellac sealer on top of the already applied primer to prevent the bleed through?

  4. I have a painted kitchen table that is very scratched. However, I love it and want to refinish it with a paint that can stand up to sticky messes, etc. I know I have to prep it, but should I use a oil paint as a top coat?

    1. Hi Eleanor! Oil-based paint is known to have a tougher finish and withstand more wear and tear. It’s a little messier to work with, and definitely has some strong fumes. If you really wanted to do a water-based paint, I’d recommend an alkyd-based paint. Behr makes one (in satin and semi-gloss finish) and so does Benjamin Moore (there line is called Advanced). I’ve used both to paint cabinets and I love how well it stands up to use. I hope that helps. Best of luck on your project!

  5. Hello Jenny. I’m pretty new to the whole paint your furniture thing. I recently discovered Heirloom Traditions chalk paint (which has primer, paint and wax in one so they say no need to prime) and my first two projects went well. But decided to tackle my kitchen cabinets this weekend. They’re over 100 years old and had years and years and years of grime and varnish (I just bought the place). Glad I ran across your blog to find the RIGHT primer for these things. Followed your advice and used the oil based Zinser brand Stain cover. Took two coats to fully coat. I would have died if I hadn’t have primed these things first. Thank you ever so much for your recommendations.

    1. I’m so glad to hear it was helpful! Yes, I don’t often prime furniture pieces, but I’ve found that with kitchen cabinets it’s definitely worth it. The paint is going to adhere so much better now!! Have fun finishing up your kitchen!

  6. Hi Jenny, I appreciate your informative and helpful blogs. I am no expert on furniture painting. I want to paint a small to medium desk for my daughter. The existing color is Mohagany. I would like to paint it old white with some gold touch ups, if this makes any sense. Can you please guide me? Thank you so much and God bless you!