Painting your own kitchen cabinets to create a professional finish is totally possible with the right type of paint! This post describes the best type of paint for cabinets. It includes the best brands of paint for kitchen cabinets, the cost of various brands, and where to purchase paint for kitchen cabinets.
This post was originally published in August 2019. Updated in June 2022 with information on new brands of paint available for painting cabinets.
Spoiler – I’m not a professional painter. BUT, I have personally used each of the paints listed in this post. Plus, I’ve painted several different sets of kitchen cabinets, and hundreds of different furniture pieces. I’m a DIYer, but I assure you I refuse to write about topics I don’t have experience with and knowledge about.
Kitchen cabinets are a high use item and need special paint that is able to withstand lots of use and cleaning. All paint is not made the same. There are definitely certain types of paint that I have found work best for cabinets. Thankfully, these paints are readily available at many stores – perfect for those of you that want to paint your own cabinets!
Even if you are hiring a contractor to paint your kitchen cabinets, I would still highly recommend that you request for them to use alkyd paint on your kitchen.
Best Paint for Cabinets: Acrylic Alkyd Enamel Paint
One of my favorite types of paints for painting cabinets is a hybrid alkyd paint. It’s a fairly recent development in the paint industry made to mimic oil-based paint without all the harmful VOCs and nasty clean up. Acrylic Alkyd Enamel is now a water-based paint which allows for easy clean up, but still creates an extremely durable finish without the need for a topcoat.
Here are those positive benefits to alkyd paint that make it the perfect paint for cabinets:
- Levels beautifully – Basically, it levels when it dries, which means that you won’t be able to see any brush strokes once the paint dries.
- Dries to a tough, durable finish – Because the enamel finish is durable, it is easy to clean, which is essential in a kitchen.
- No need for a topcoat – The tough finish means that you don’t need a topcoat. Even if you choose a matte finish in alkyd, it is still tough enough to be wiped clean without a topcoat.
- Easy water clean-up – This paint is water-based and all supplies can be easily cleaned with water.
Where to Buy Paint for Kitchen Cabinets
A few years ago, there were only two paint companies that manufactured this type of paint in a water-based finish. Now, every major paint manufacturer has a version of this alkyd enamel paint. You can find it at all of the major home improvement stores. See the image below to determine which major stores carry the different brands of alkyd enamel paint.
Cost of Kitchen Cabinet Paint (Alkyd Paint)
Please be aware that with all of these benefits, alkyd based paints will be more expensive than traditional “wall paint”. Of course, there are different price points between the different brands, so you can save money there if you’d like. Also, a lower sheen will be less expensive as well. *Sherwin Williams and Benjamin Moore paints are the other ones that come in a flat/matte sheen in alkyd paint. The other, less expensive brands only offer satin, semi-gloss, and gloss as finish options.*
| Brand of Paint | Approximate Cost per Gallon – prices updated in 2022 |
| Sherwin Williams ProClassic | starts at $85 (but they often have sales for 25% off making it around $70) |
| Benjamin Moore Advance | starts at $70 |
| Valspar Cabinet and Furniture Paint | starts at $60 |
| Dutch Boy Cabinet, Door and Trim | starts at $50 |
| Behr Urethane Alkyd | starts at $45 |
DIY Kitchen Cabinet Painting – Common Questions
The most common questions people ask me through my blog are often about painting furniture and painting cabinets. I’ve tried to write more comprehensive posts about
Do I Need to Sand and Prime My Cabinets Before Painting?
I would highly recommend sanding (and possibly priming) before painting your cabinets, no matter what type of paint you are using.
I know, I know, there are plenty of people on Pinterest who say you can paint your cabinets without sanding or priming (which you can, of course, do, because ultimately you can do whatever you want), but I would never recommend painting such a high use piece without first sanding, at the very least. I always, always give my cabinets and furniture a light sanding before I paint. Always. Then, I almost always prime my cabinets before painting.
Alkyd paint adheres best (and for a long period of time) if a primer is used first. It’s well worth the little bit of extra time you’ll put in to keep your cabinets looking beautiful! If your cabinets are prefinished (meaning not unfinished wood) or painted, you can use any type of primer for this step. If they are unfinished wood, or made of cherry or mahogany, you’ll need to use a primer that blocks wood tannins. This post describes the best types of primer for furniture and cabinets and will give you all the details you need to choose the best primer for your project.
Which Alkyd Paint Do You Personally Recommend?
If you’re looking for my personal favorite of all of these brands, I would have to choose Sherwin Williams ProClassic paint. Of course, it’s also the most expensive. With that being said, I’ve used all of these other brands and have been extremely pleased with all of them. This type of paint is pretty incredible!
If I had to pick a favorite of the more budget friendly paints (between Valspar, Behr, and Dutch Boy) I would choose Behr. I used the Behr alkyd paint on my own kitchen cabinets and am very pleased with how well they’ve held up for 3 years. Below is a video I made after one year to show how well my kitchen cabinets painted with Behr Urethane Alkyd were holding up.
Quick note on Valspar Cabinet and Furniture Paint. I used it on a small piece of furniture and was pleased with it as comparable to the other lower cost alkyd paints. I recently noticed it has received very mixed reviews. With this in mind, I would recommend it with a word of caution. It seems that some people have not been able to achieve consistently good results with this paint.
I have my paint, now how do I actually paint my kitchen cabinets?
Legit question that makes me laugh every time. This post gives all the details on how to paint kitchen cabinets with all of my tips and tricks for a successful, professional-looking finish. I can’t, however, help you pick out a color. (The hardest part, IMO!)
Kitchen Cabinets and Furniture Pieces Painted with Alkyd Paint
I’ve used these paints in a variety of ways. In these posts, I share specific tips and tricks for the specific type of paint and project. You can fin all of the specific paint colors used on these pieces listed in these posts as well.
Words to Look for in Cabinet and Furniture Paint
Paint has come a long way in the last ten years! Manufacturers are coming up with new blends and formulas that are easy to apply and give the best finishes. For example, interior wall paint used to be primarily latex, however now most are an acrylic-latex blend. Oil-based paint has become almost obsolete because they’ve created paints that have the benefits of oil-based in water-based finishes. (“Alkyd” was always an oil-based type of paint, but now these modified alkyds are water based.) With all of that being said – most paints are a blend of something. Instead, look for key words when selecting paint for cabinets or furniture, and avoid others!
Words to look for when painting cabinets, furniture, and trim:
- enamel – This paint will dry to a tough finish, and you shouldn’t need a topcoat.
- acrylic – I’ve found that acrylic paints (without latex) tend to adhere to finished wood (i.e. cabinets and furniture) much better. They also don’t peel or flake away from the surface over time nearly as much.
- urethane and/or alkyd – These paints were traditionally used for industrial or automotive applications because they are tough, but now with some of the blends that have been created, components are being integrated for easy use in the home.
Words to avoid when painting cabinets, furniture, and trim:
- latex – If it has latex, it means that some of the binders are vinyl resins and the paint peels and flakes more easily. (Remember, we’re talking about painting cabinets and furniture here; latex-based paint is still totally okay for walls, though.)
- oil-based – They can’t be disposed of, need solvents to clean up, and are highly flammable. Plus, they tend to yellow over time – yuck!
If you want to dive deeper into this topic, this website breaks it all down way further than I could ever begin to comprehend.
Cabinet Refacing and Painting
I updated our outdated 1970s kitchen at our cottage by replacing the doors with new, wood doors and painting them. Rather than ripping everything out, I installed new doors and painted the entire space to give it a new look on a small budget. You can see how to replace kitchen cabinet doors in this post, or clicking the images below.
Thanks for much for being here! I can only hope this post was helpful to you in one way or another. Best of luck on your upcoming kitchen painting project. You’ve got this!
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Your post “Why I Chose to Reface My Kitchen Cabinets (rather than paint or replace)” that directed me to this one mentioned that you sprayed the paint on your cabinet doors. Can you give a little more info about what that entailed? Did you rent a sprayer? Any tips or warnings? Thanks so much!
Yes, I did spray them. I’ve painted four kitchen cabinets, and three of them I’ve used a paint sprayer for the doors. I feel like it gives a much smoother finisher. You could definitely rent and it would be worth it. I have a Homeright paint sprayer but I’ve also heard great things about the Wagner Fine Finish Sprayer. I hope that helps some. Even if you choose to roll and brush the doors, if you use one of the paints I recommended, they will still level really well and look awesome!
Which paint did you use with the Homeright sprayer(I just bought one). What primer to use on bare wood with the paint u used, I built new doors with pine and birch ply center panels. The panels have already been primed with water base kill. Thanks
Hi! I’ve used all different types of paint in my Homeright sprayer. For cabinets I personally love using alkyd paint (brands listed in the post) and have used this with success in my sprayer. I did need to thin the paint just a little. (Now, some of these brands of alkyd paint say not to thin, but I didn’t have an issue and the paint is still adhering really well) With that paint I use standard primer (Kilz or Zinsser have both worked for me)
What did you use to thin the paint?
Hi Susan. I used a little bit of water, but I only did this because my sprayer was pretty old and the paint wasn’t spraying as well as I wanted it to. It actually does say on the can not to thin. Now, I will say it still covered really well and has held up really well, but if you’re able to get away with not thinning it, I’d recommend it. (I’ve since purchased a better sprayer and now I do not need to thin alkyd paint because I can adjust the flow rate.)
Thanks for this, Jenny! I just primed my built-ins and was planning to use DecoArt’s Satin Enamels paint for them, but decided that I need more paint than I was originally thinking. I will probably try the Benjamin Moore Advance paint now since the dry time is faster than the Behr. Thanks for this helpful info! xo Bre
Your built-ins look fabulous!!!
Thank you for this informational article. I’m deciding between the Behr and the General Finishes Milk paint. I am Painting a kitchen island with glass doors above. Since there are intricate grids and inside shelves, I’d like to do as little sanding as possible. What would you recommend.?
If you want to not sand, I’d recommend primer no matter which one you choose. Because they are in the kitchen and high use, you’d want to do a clear topcoat if you choose General Finishes. Behr Alkyd won’t need a topcoat, so it will save you a step if you go with that one!
My cabinets are mdf, will this method work for me?
Yes, definitely. I would just be sure to use primer before painting.
Hi we are getting ready to paint our kitchen cabinets. Do you have a rough idea of how many gallons of paint and primer I would need? I’m planning on getting either the Benjamin Moore advanced or Behr one. I have 25 cupboards (various sizes) and 10 drawer fronts plus the sides of our island. I’m planning on spraying the doors and brushing/rolling the boxes.
I’m sorry for the delay – you may have already painted them by now! My best estimate would be two gallons. Spraying does use up more paint, but I’m pretty sure 2 gallons should be plenty.
I’m curious what kind of butcher block you have ? And what finish is on there . They look perfect for what I’m looking for.
Hi Jeanne. They are Birch butcherblock counters from Menards. They come natural (unfinished), so I used multiple coats of satin polyurethane which slightly darkened them but as given them a waterproof finish. I’ve also had good luck with Watco butcherblock finishing oil on other projects and would recommend that to seal them as well. Good luck on your project!!
Hi Jeanne, when using the spray gun option do you dilute the paint behr or Benjamin advance options?
And the primer by zinsser?
Finaly do you prefer matte finish or satin?
Susana:)
Hi Susana. I try not to dilute the paint. There is a note on the can not to dilute, but I will say I have done so on one kitchen because my paint sprayer just needed slight dilution and it didn’t have any negative effect on the finish. If you can get a good spray without diluting, that’s what I would recommend. But, it still works if you need to. Zinsser is usually my go-to primer, but any brand will work. For the finish, I’ve used both matte and satin, and both do hold up well. Of course, satin will be a little more “durable”, but I hesitate to even say that because you can still wipe down matte (in this type of paint) and it has held up well. I hope that helps. Good luck on your project!
Thanks for the info on Behr alkyd. I was recommended to use this by the guy at home depot. Wanted to learn more. So, if I’m using it on existing trim that is honey oak, should I prime?
My understanding is very light sanding (just to give it grip), primer and then paint.
I’ll read they again to see which primer you mention
I apologize for the delayed response. In case you are still planning your project out, I would recommend just want you said. Lightly sand, prime, and then paint with alkyd. Priming them will just ensure the paint adheres much better for the long run. I usually use Zinsser 1-2-3 primer and have had great luck with in on most projects. It should work well for your trim.
hello. Can you tell me the exact color of paint you used for your lower cabinets? the navy blue ish color. Thank you!!
Hi Emily! Of course – it’s Polo Blue by Benjamin Moore. 🙂
Hi there,
I apologize if this is a duplicate question…and/or something you addressed already. Last year, I painted my cabinets with alkyd paint and am super pleased with the finish. I mean, it’s amazing and cleans so nicely. However, we are now doing some other projects that lead me to want a different color on my cabinets (omg). Should prep be as extensive or can I get away with just lightly sanding before applying a different color in alkyd over alkyd? TIA!
Hi! I’m sorry for my delay. If the finish is intact (as it sounds like it is), you should be able to paint right over it with a new color. (Also, that sounds like something I would do as well – change my mind about color and repaint!) I would recommend using the same brand of paint, but another coat should adhere well. After two different colored coats, the build up might be at the point where I’d recommend stripping and starting fresh for a super clean finish, but I’d personally paint over that first color with a second. Just be sure to clean the surface really well. I’d also recommend lightly hand sanding (with 220 grit or higher) to scuff it up just a bit.
Paint employee review:
Alkyd = oil base. If you ask for alkyd paint you will get oil based trim paint at any store that carries it.
Water based alkyd hybrid
Water based alkyd urethane
Water based urethane
That is what a DIY should ask for. Those are the types of products you are recommending.
Emerald urethane is the most expensive Sherwin trim paint, proclassic water based alkyd hybrid is the cheaper of the two.
For acrylic paint there are a number of versions. Typically 100% acrylic is the best option for a standard water based trim paint and you are right it is less durable than a hybrid or oil based trim product. Adhesion is a different story. At a paint store, if you throw out latex or acrylic people will think you want water based paint without looking into the make up.
I wish you were the employee at my paint stores, because you actually know what you’re talking about!! Yes, this is all true, which is why I included the brand names of the different paints I recommend, because even employees are often confused by all of this. Unfortunately, I’ve had quite a few misconceptions at the paint store when employees tell me that an alkyd paint is oil-based (and then I show them the can that many hybrid paints are using the word but it is actually water-based). Sometimes, it’s much better to go in with the exact brand and name you want, because employees can be misinformed, especially if they haven’t used the product themselves on multiple projects.
I am going to paint over stained cabinets I was told to sand and to use an oil based ptimer, I have a qt. Of kilz original oil based primer That I have had for a couple of years. Do you think it is still good to use? It is sealed well.
I’m sorry for the delay in response to you. My guess is that it should be fine. It will probably take a lot of stirring to get everything mixed all together again, but as long as you are able to stir, it should be fine. Oil based paint and primer actually have pretty long shelf lives (way longer than water based paints!)
Hello there! Thanks for your very informative post! I am painting some previously finished cabinets. Currently dark stain- low sheen. I have decided to use either the behr or sherwin Williams urethane alkyd in white. I have already used zinsser 123 on upper casings, but am being told at all paint stores that I MUST use an oil based primer with these types of paint. Now I’m just confused. Don’t mind the sanding or primer, but definitely want to do the right primer. Any thoughts or insight you have would be greatly appreciated!
Hi! I’m sorry as I know you commented a week and a half ago and may have solved your problem already. I have used Zinsser 123 under both of the types of paints you are thinking of using and they are holding up beautifully. To be honest, I’m not sure why they would say an oil-based primer should be used. Both of those paints are technically not oil-based. They are water clean up, but something in the formula mimics the properties of oil. It’s possible they saw the urethane (which used to signify that it was only an oil-based product) but that is just not the case anymore. Plus, I’ve actually used Zinsser 123 primer under actual oil-based paint because the formula of that primer now works with oil-based and it has worked well. My personal recommendation is you are good to use either of those paints over what you’ve already primed!
If cabinets in my kitchen were originally painted with PPG acrylic latex paint 16 years ago would you use SW Emerald or Pro Classic to repaint them? And would you sand and prime them or just sand and paint?
Yes, you should be fine to paint over that as long as the paint is still adhering well to the cabinets. I would personally recommend priming and and then painting.
I am thinking of using the Sherwin Williams paint, you said you thinned the paint, what did you thin it with and how much did you use?
I’ve personally never thinned SW Pro Classic (only used it without thinning in my sprayer), but I have thinned Behr’s Alkyd Enamel paint and Benjamin Moore’s Advance paint. I just used a little water because my old sprayer wasn’t that great and needed the paint to be a little thinner. With that being said, it is actually recommended not to thin these paints (at least that’s that it says on the can). With the little amount of water I used (probably about a 1/20th ratio if I had to guess), I didn’t notice any adverse effects whatsoever. But, if you can get away with not thinning it, that would be my rec since that’s what the manufacturers recommend…
Have you tried or heard anything about the pro classic with the catalyst? Not really familiar with types of paint and researching to paint my kitchen cabinets. Also you say you used the pro classic but you have a picture of the emerald, which pro classic did you use, sorry for all the questions.
I have personally not used catalysts, but I think they are only used with oil based paints. (That’s a big “I think”…) I know you can add a reducer to water based paints (something like Floetrol) but that is made to increase the dry time. This helps with leveling, but it won’t increase hardness of the paint. If you’re looking for a water-based paint with a hard durable finish, I think ProClassic is one of the best water based options that will give you this finish.