The Best Cabinet Paint: Honest Review in Side by Side Test
After personally using all of these paints AND testing them side by side on cabinet doors, I have found the best paint for kitchen cabinets!
I am a HUGE advocate for reusing what you have instead of buying new. Painting your existing cabinets rather than gutting and replacing them is one of the best ways to update your home without spending a ton of money.
Of course, you want to make sure that you achieve a professional-looking, smooth finish, which is entirely possible if you choose the right paint.
This post was originally published in 2019 and has been frequently updated with current information and reviews.
Yes, you can paint your own cabinets and get a smooth factory finish by using one of these best paints for cabinets!
I’ve personally used each of the brands I recommend in this post on my own kitchen cabinets and the cabinets of friends and family. This allows me to assess the durability over time in real-life, lived in homes.
To be sure I was providing accurate information in this post (and that the paints haven’t changed since the last time I used them), I completed a side by side test in 2024. (It’s also really hard to accurately compare paint I used even a month apart!)
I tested all of these paints on the same cabinet door surface on the same day and tested their ability to be brushed, rolled, and sprayed. Once the paints dried and cured, I tested specific aspects like durability, adhesion, stain-resistance and ability to be cleaned.
And just to be clear, no one is paying me to say any of this! These reviews are honest, unbiased and based on my personal experiences with these brands of paint (in comparison to many other brands I’ve also used and tested.)
After all that backstory, I think it’s time to reveal the BEST cabinet paint!
The Best Overall Cabinet Paint: Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel
Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel is a hybrid alkyd paint that essentially applies as a water-based paint but dries to an oil-based finish. These water-based alkyd paints have become increasingly popular with professional painters and DIYers alike.
Every paint manufacturer makes a version of this paint, and I made sure to test them all!
Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel came out on top as the best brand of hybrid alkyd enamel paint (and the best paint overall). It paints on absolutely beautifully and is great for a beginner or experienced painter.
*Note: this is not the same paint as Sherwin Williams Emerald Acrylic Latex paint – be sure you ask for the correct one. Emerald Acrylic Latex is great for walls, but not for cabinets!
I used it on my pop-up camper cabinets, as well as several pieces of high-use furniture, and it’s held up extremely well.
Brushing
My brush ran very smoothly with absolutely no dragging while painting. This paint has a long open time, which means that it doesn’t dry too quickly. This is ideal because you can go back over places you need to touch up and don’t need to worry about the brush dragging through drying paint and creating brush strokes.
It brushes on so beautifully, it’s almost hard to tell the difference between a brushed finish versus a sprayed finish (and this is usually not true for most paints)!
Rolling
I actually used this brand of paint in my side by side comparison of paint rollers to find the best roller for the smoothest finish because it’s that good.
I ran the test with a few other types and brands of paint, and none of them rolled as smoothly as SW Emerald Urethane paint.
(The roller that performed the best in my side by side test was a 1/4″ nap mohair roller and the high density foam roller came in second.)
Spraying
The consistency of this paint (thin, but not overly thin) makes it ideal for spraying, especially if you don’t have much experience with spraying or have an entry level paint sprayer. I tried it in three different paint sprayers and it sprayed evenly and cleanly in all three! (Again, this can not be said for most paints.)
PROS
- Very easy to apply when brushed, rolled and sprayed.
- Levels beautifully when brushed, rolled and sprayed (the BEST of any brand of alkyd paint)
- Cures to a very scratch-resistant finish (the best in my test)
- Recoat time in 4 hours (less than Benjamin Moore Advance)
- Adheres well to lightly sanded surfaces
- Can be tinted to any color swatch
- Water-based and low VOC
CONS
- Most expensive brand of water-based alkyd paint ($109 per gallon – Sherwin Williams often has sales – sometimes up to 40%)
- Longer cure time (although the fastest of all alkyd paints tested)
- Satin sheen is slightly more matte than Benjamin Moore Advance (just FYI, not actually a con). If you want more sheen, go up to semi-gloss.
I have also used Benjamin Moore’s Advance paint on several sets of cabinets and in my side by side test. After using it in all of these ways and in comparison to Sherwin Williams, I do prefer SW slightly more than Advance. Full details in this post: comparing hybrid alkyd paints.
I have personally only used this paint over a primed surface. The only recommendation I can give you it to take the extra time to prime. It is well worth the extra couple of hours it will take you to prime. (Jump ahead to the section on why I always prime.)
The Best Budget-Friendly Cabinet Paint: Dutch Boy Cabinet, Door and Trim Alkyd Enamel
I used this brand of paint for the first time on the cabinets in my hybrid camper two years ago. I remember being somewhat shocked at how well it painted, and I have been equally pleased by the durability over the past two years.
Considering this is one of the cheapest brands of water-based alkyd enamel paint, it performed remarkably well in my side by side test as well.
It brushes and rolls nicely, and also sprays well. It doesn’t apply quite as nicely as Sherwin Williams, but it’s definitely close. However, since it’s half the price of SW, the price difference could be worth it for a more budget-friendly project.
PROS
- One of the least expensive brands of alkyd enamel paint ($55 per gallon)
- Easy to apply with a brush, roller and sprayer.
- Levels quite well to a smooth finish (even when brushing and rolling)
- Can be tinted to any color swatch.
- Cures to a scratch-resistant finish (but not as good as Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane)
- Water-based and low VOC
CONS
- Satin sheen is more shiny that other most satins (just FYI)
- Longer cure time
- I haven’t tested the adhesion of this paint without priming
I would recommend priming before using this paint. I actually haven’t tested it on an unprimed surface, but given that it is a less expensive brand, priming will only help with adhesion. Plus, I’ve personally had great results when using primer with this paint, so I can recommend priming based on experience. I promise it will be worth it.
Yes, I did compare it to another budget-friendly brand (Behr Urethane Trim Enamel) and it performed better, in ALL aspects of my test. Plus, I used Behr Urethane Trim Enamel on my own kitchen cabinets and although they’ve held up fine, the other paints listed in this post have held up better, including Dutch Boy.
Insl-X Cabinet Coat came in very close to Dutch Boy. The only downfall to Insl-X was that it was difficult to spray. However, if you are planning to brush and roll, I would recommend Insl-X over Dutch Boy due to its durability.
Best Acrylic Paint for Cabinets: General Finishes Milk Paint
General Finishes Milk Paint is an amazing paint that I have used numerous times on cabinets and furniture. I find that General Finishes Milk Paint has excellent adhesion without the need for a primer.
Although it’s called “Milk Paint”, this paint is not actually milk paint at all. It’s an acrylic mineral paint and is very different than natural milk paint. (I would NOT recommend using actual milk paint on cabinets!)
This post gives a full comparison of all the major types of paint, including real milk paint.
For the first set of cabinets I painted (8 years ago), I used General Finishes Milk Paint. I scuff sanded the cabinets with 220 grit sandpaper, but I did not prime.
So, if you’re looking for a cabinet paint that doesn’t require a primer, General Finishes Milk Paint is the only brand I can personally recommend.
Although General Finishes Milk Paint cures to a pretty durable finish (perfect for dressers or other pieces of furniture), I would recommend using a clear, water-based topcoat to protect the paint even more, especially kitchen cabinets.
I used a General Finishes Flat Acrylic topcoat on these cabinets and the finish has held up very well and is easy to clean. In fact, the adhesion has been just as good as the cabinets where I used alkyd enamel paint with a primer.
I have had some staining on a nursery dresser I painted with GF without a top coat. I also painted bathroom cabinets without a top coat and did have some of the edges of the drawers wear down over time. This is primarily why I would personally recommend a top coat on such a high use item like kitchen cabinets.
PROS
- Easy to apply with a brush, roller and sprayer
- Paints on very easily and very beautifully
- Water-based and low VOC
- Does not require a primer (but I do recommend scuff sanding with 220 grit sandpaper before painting)
- Cures (fully dries) faster than alkyd paint
CONS
- Most expensive paint for cabinets ($100 per gallon)
- You may want to apply a topcoat for more durability or higher sheen
- Limited number of paint colors
- Only one sheen available (similar to an eggshell or satin sheen)
Oil-Based Paint for Cabinets
Oil-based paint levels beautifully and does give a very durable finish. With that being said, the hybrid alkyd versions available these days are essentially just as good as traditional oil-based paints.
My dad painted their kitchen cabinets with oil paint 15 years ago. The paint on those cabinets are holding up well, with a few dings and chips here and there. However, I wouldn’t say the finish or durability is any better than the cabinets I’ve painted with Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Enamel.
To me, using oil-based paint just isn’t worth the environmental effect for practically the same finish and durability as new hybrid paints.
Best Sheen for Kitchen Cabinets
The best sheen for kitchen cabinets is completely based on personal choice, as long as you are using the right type of paint. If you are using an alkyd paint, I’ve found that even the matte sheens still clean up well and can stand up to use in kitchens.
Here are a couple of quick tips for selecting the right sheen for your kitchen cabinets.
High Gloss or Gloss
- Super Shiny: Cabinets painted in gloss will reflect quite a bit of light and look shiny. Think of the shine level on artificial laminate cabinets.
- Very Durable: Due to the finish, it will be the easiest to clean and very durable.
Semi-Gloss
- Visible Shine: Cabinets painted in semi-gloss finish will reflect some light and look shiny.
- Very Durable: Due to the finish, it will be the easy to clean and very durable.
Satin
- Durable Finish: Satin finish can easily be wiped down and gives a very durable finish.
- Less Fingerprints: Based on my experience, I find satin cabinets leave the least amount of visible fingerprints and smudges. Now, this also is highly dependent on your cabinet color (smudge and fingerprints are more visible on darker colors, while dirt and grime is more visible on lighter colors).
- Slight Sheen: Satin finish gives a slight sheen with a little bit of light reflected, but it won’t look “shiny” like gloss.
Eggshell
Although eggshell is a common finish for latex or acrylic wall paint, none of these brands of alkyd paint make an eggshell finish.
Matte
- Benjamin Moore Advance is the only company that makes a matte finish alkyd paint.
- Low Sheen: If you’re looking for no shine, then matte finish is the best option.
- Still Durable: Matte finish (in alkyd paint) is still durable and can be wiped clean.
- Shows Fingerprints: If you’re using a darker cabinet color, expect to see fingerprints and grease smudges because there’s no shine on the cabinets to hide it.
My favorite sheen for cabinet paints is a satin finish. It hides fingerprints well, has some extra durability, but isn’t super shiny either.
Words to Look for in Cabinet and Furniture Paint
If you want to try out a paint different than the ones recommended in this post, here are a few things to look for in quality paint that works well for cabinets.
Paint has come a long way in the last decade! Manufacturers are coming up with new blends and formulas that are easy to apply and give the best finishes. For example, interior wall paint used to be primarily latex, however now most are an acrylic-latex blend or acrylic.
Today, most paints are a blend of something. You can look for key words when selecting paint for cabinets or furniture, and avoid other words!
Words to look for when painting wood cabinets, furniture, and trim:
- enamel – This paint will dry to a tough finish, and you shouldn’t need a topcoat.
- acrylic – Acrylic paints tend to adhere to finished wood (i.e. cabinets and furniture) much better than vinyl latex paints. They also don’t peel or flake away from the surface over time nearly as much.
- urethane and/or alkyd – These paints were traditionally used for industrial or automotive applications because they are tough, but now with the hybrid blends that have been created, components are being integrated for easy use in the home. Look for the water-based versions for easy clean up and less odor.
Words to avoid when painting cabinets, furniture, and trim:
- latex – If it has latex, it means that some of the binders are vinyl resins and the paint peels and flakes more easily. (Remember, we’re talking about painting cabinets and furniture here; latex paint is still totally okay for walls, though.)
- oil-based – They can’t be disposed of, need solvents to clean up, and are highly flammable. Plus, they have volatile organic compounds and are very stinky. Oil paints do give a durable finish and level very nicely, but now that paint manufacturers are making water-based paints to mimic these effects, you can avoid traditional oil-based paint.
Do I need to prime my cabinets before painting?
I would highly recommend priming before painting your cabinets, no matter what type of paint you are using, for the best results.
In fact, if I had to choose between priming or scuff sanding my cabinets, I would always choose to prime.
I know, there are plenty of people on social media who say you can paint your cabinets without sanding or priming (which you can, of course, do, because ultimately you can do whatever you want), but I would never recommend painting such a high use piece without priming.
I asked my neighbor who is a professional painter if he ever skips priming when painting cabinets, and he literally laughed in my face.
Every professional painter (who knows what they’re doing) primes cabinets before painting. Personally, I’m going to stick to following the advice of the pros and the process that hasn’t let me down yet.
All kinds of paint adhere best (and for a longer period of time) if a primer is used first. It’s well worth the little bit of extra time you’ll put in to keep your cabinets looking beautiful!
Plus, primer is cheaper than paint and can be tinted to a shade close to your cabinet paint color. This means that your first coat of primer with ensure excellent adhesion AND cost less than money that it would to use cabinet paint for your first coat!
If your cabinets are prefinished (meaning not raw wood) or painted, you can use any type of primer for this step. If they are unfinished, raw wood, or made of cherry or mahogany, you’ll need to use a primer that blocks wood tannins.
My top recommendation for the best cabinet primer that adheres well and blocks bleed through is Zinsser Synthetic Shellac primer. (It’s just as good as regular shellac primer but has easy water clean-up!)
This post describes the best types of primer for cabinets and will give you all the details you need to choose the best primer for your project.
How many coats of paint are needed to paint cabinets?
When painting your cabinets, you will need at least two, if not three, coats of paint to thoroughly cover the surface. It’s important to follow the dry time and recoat time recommendations marked on the can closely. (Each brand of paint is different.)
To ensure you’re painting on a smooth surface for your second coat, it’s best to lightly sand with 220 grit sandpaper before applying your fresh coat of paint. Then, use a damp lint-free cloth or a tack cloth to remove any dust.
I have a complete post on how to paint cabinets for a smooth finish, without a paint sprayer.
How long should I let my cabinets dry after painting?
After applying your final coat of paint, be sure to allow the cabinets to fully cure before closing any doors. If you’re able to wait several days before installing the doors back on the frames, I would recommend it.
Then, keep the doors open for another week or so to ensure the paint on the two surfaces doesn’t stick together. If they are closed to early, the paint on the door and frame will cure together and when you open it, the paint will have to rip off of one of the surfaces. (I’ve made this mistake and learned the hard way on this one!)
This is one of my top ten tricks for painting cabinets.
FYI – Acrylic paints dry and cure faster than alkyds, which means General Finishes has a faster dry time compared to the other alkyd paints in this post.
I hope you found this post to be helpful! Here are a few more posts that might help you in your DIY cabinet painting journey. You’ve got this!
Post by Jenny Leads
Jenny is the voice behind Refresh Living. She has a passion for helping people to create a home they love without spending a lot of money.
Your post “Why I Chose to Reface My Kitchen Cabinets (rather than paint or replace)” that directed me to this one mentioned that you sprayed the paint on your cabinet doors. Can you give a little more info about what that entailed? Did you rent a sprayer? Any tips or warnings? Thanks so much!
Yes, I did spray them. I’ve painted four kitchen cabinets, and three of them I’ve used a paint sprayer for the doors. I feel like it gives a much smoother finisher. You could definitely rent and it would be worth it. I have a Homeright paint sprayer but I’ve also heard great things about the Wagner Fine Finish Sprayer. I hope that helps some. Even if you choose to roll and brush the doors, if you use one of the paints I recommended, they will still level really well and look awesome!
Which paint did you use with the Homeright sprayer(I just bought one). What primer to use on bare wood with the paint u used, I built new doors with pine and birch ply center panels. The panels have already been primed with water base kill. Thanks
Hi! I’ve used all different types of paint in my Homeright sprayer. For cabinets I personally love using alkyd paint (brands listed in the post) and have used this with success in my sprayer. I did need to thin the paint just a little. (Now, some of these brands of alkyd paint say not to thin, but I didn’t have an issue and the paint is still adhering really well) With that paint I use standard primer (Kilz or Zinsser have both worked for me)
What did you use to thin the paint?
Hi Susan. I used a little bit of water, but I only did this because my sprayer was pretty old and the paint wasn’t spraying as well as I wanted it to. It actually does say on the can not to thin. Now, I will say it still covered really well and has held up really well, but if you’re able to get away with not thinning it, I’d recommend it. (I’ve since purchased a better sprayer and now I do not need to thin alkyd paint because I can adjust the flow rate.)
Thanks for this, Jenny! I just primed my built-ins and was planning to use DecoArt’s Satin Enamels paint for them, but decided that I need more paint than I was originally thinking. I will probably try the Benjamin Moore Advance paint now since the dry time is faster than the Behr. Thanks for this helpful info! xo Bre
Your built-ins look fabulous!!!
Thank you for this informational article. I’m deciding between the Behr and the General Finishes Milk paint. I am Painting a kitchen island with glass doors above. Since there are intricate grids and inside shelves, I’d like to do as little sanding as possible. What would you recommend.?
If you want to not sand, I’d recommend primer no matter which one you choose. Because they are in the kitchen and high use, you’d want to do a clear topcoat if you choose General Finishes. Behr Alkyd won’t need a topcoat, so it will save you a step if you go with that one!
My cabinets are mdf, will this method work for me?
Yes, definitely. I would just be sure to use primer before painting.
Hi we are getting ready to paint our kitchen cabinets. Do you have a rough idea of how many gallons of paint and primer I would need? I’m planning on getting either the Benjamin Moore advanced or Behr one. I have 25 cupboards (various sizes) and 10 drawer fronts plus the sides of our island. I’m planning on spraying the doors and brushing/rolling the boxes.
I’m sorry for the delay – you may have already painted them by now! My best estimate would be two gallons. Spraying does use up more paint, but I’m pretty sure 2 gallons should be plenty.
I’m curious what kind of butcher block you have ? And what finish is on there . They look perfect for what I’m looking for.
Hi Jeanne. They are Birch butcherblock counters from Menards. They come natural (unfinished), so I used multiple coats of satin polyurethane which slightly darkened them but as given them a waterproof finish. I’ve also had good luck with Watco butcherblock finishing oil on other projects and would recommend that to seal them as well. Good luck on your project!!
Hi Jeanne, when using the spray gun option do you dilute the paint behr or Benjamin advance options?
And the primer by zinsser?
Finaly do you prefer matte finish or satin?
Susana:)
Hi Susana. I try not to dilute the paint. There is a note on the can not to dilute, but I will say I have done so on one kitchen because my paint sprayer just needed slight dilution and it didn’t have any negative effect on the finish. If you can get a good spray without diluting, that’s what I would recommend. But, it still works if you need to. Zinsser is usually my go-to primer, but any brand will work. For the finish, I’ve used both matte and satin, and both do hold up well. Of course, satin will be a little more “durable”, but I hesitate to even say that because you can still wipe down matte (in this type of paint) and it has held up well. I hope that helps. Good luck on your project!
Thanks for the info on Behr alkyd. I was recommended to use this by the guy at home depot. Wanted to learn more. So, if I’m using it on existing trim that is honey oak, should I prime?
My understanding is very light sanding (just to give it grip), primer and then paint.
I’ll read they again to see which primer you mention
I apologize for the delayed response. In case you are still planning your project out, I would recommend just want you said. Lightly sand, prime, and then paint with alkyd. Priming them will just ensure the paint adheres much better for the long run. I usually use Zinsser 1-2-3 primer and have had great luck with in on most projects. It should work well for your trim.
hello. Can you tell me the exact color of paint you used for your lower cabinets? the navy blue ish color. Thank you!!
Hi Emily! Of course – it’s Polo Blue by Benjamin Moore. 🙂
Hi there,
I apologize if this is a duplicate question…and/or something you addressed already. Last year, I painted my cabinets with alkyd paint and am super pleased with the finish. I mean, it’s amazing and cleans so nicely. However, we are now doing some other projects that lead me to want a different color on my cabinets (omg). Should prep be as extensive or can I get away with just lightly sanding before applying a different color in alkyd over alkyd? TIA!
Hi! I’m sorry for my delay. If the finish is intact (as it sounds like it is), you should be able to paint right over it with a new color. (Also, that sounds like something I would do as well – change my mind about color and repaint!) I would recommend using the same brand of paint, but another coat should adhere well. After two different colored coats, the build up might be at the point where I’d recommend stripping and starting fresh for a super clean finish, but I’d personally paint over that first color with a second. Just be sure to clean the surface really well. I’d also recommend lightly hand sanding (with 220 grit or higher) to scuff it up just a bit.
Paint employee review:
Alkyd = oil base. If you ask for alkyd paint you will get oil based trim paint at any store that carries it.
Water based alkyd hybrid
Water based alkyd urethane
Water based urethane
That is what a DIY should ask for. Those are the types of products you are recommending.
Emerald urethane is the most expensive Sherwin trim paint, proclassic water based alkyd hybrid is the cheaper of the two.
For acrylic paint there are a number of versions. Typically 100% acrylic is the best option for a standard water based trim paint and you are right it is less durable than a hybrid or oil based trim product. Adhesion is a different story. At a paint store, if you throw out latex or acrylic people will think you want water based paint without looking into the make up.
I wish you were the employee at my paint stores, because you actually know what you’re talking about!! Yes, this is all true, which is why I included the brand names of the different paints I recommend, because even employees are often confused by all of this. Unfortunately, I’ve had quite a few misconceptions at the paint store when employees tell me that an alkyd paint is oil-based (and then I show them the can that many hybrid paints are using the word but it is actually water-based). Sometimes, it’s much better to go in with the exact brand and name you want, because employees can be misinformed, especially if they haven’t used the product themselves on multiple projects.
I am going to paint over stained cabinets I was told to sand and to use an oil based ptimer, I have a qt. Of kilz original oil based primer That I have had for a couple of years. Do you think it is still good to use? It is sealed well.
I’m sorry for the delay in response to you. My guess is that it should be fine. It will probably take a lot of stirring to get everything mixed all together again, but as long as you are able to stir, it should be fine. Oil based paint and primer actually have pretty long shelf lives (way longer than water based paints!)
Hello there! Thanks for your very informative post! I am painting some previously finished cabinets. Currently dark stain- low sheen. I have decided to use either the behr or sherwin Williams urethane alkyd in white. I have already used zinsser 123 on upper casings, but am being told at all paint stores that I MUST use an oil based primer with these types of paint. Now I’m just confused. Don’t mind the sanding or primer, but definitely want to do the right primer. Any thoughts or insight you have would be greatly appreciated!
Hi! I’m sorry as I know you commented a week and a half ago and may have solved your problem already. I have used Zinsser 123 under both of the types of paints you are thinking of using and they are holding up beautifully. To be honest, I’m not sure why they would say an oil-based primer should be used. Both of those paints are technically not oil-based. They are water clean up, but something in the formula mimics the properties of oil. It’s possible they saw the urethane (which used to signify that it was only an oil-based product) but that is just not the case anymore. Plus, I’ve actually used Zinsser 123 primer under actual oil-based paint because the formula of that primer now works with oil-based and it has worked well. My personal recommendation is you are good to use either of those paints over what you’ve already primed!
If cabinets in my kitchen were originally painted with PPG acrylic latex paint 16 years ago would you use SW Emerald or Pro Classic to repaint them? And would you sand and prime them or just sand and paint?
Yes, you should be fine to paint over that as long as the paint is still adhering well to the cabinets. I would personally recommend priming and and then painting.
I am thinking of using the Sherwin Williams paint, you said you thinned the paint, what did you thin it with and how much did you use?
I’ve personally never thinned SW Pro Classic (only used it without thinning in my sprayer), but I have thinned Behr’s Alkyd Enamel paint and Benjamin Moore’s Advance paint. I just used a little water because my old sprayer wasn’t that great and needed the paint to be a little thinner. With that being said, it is actually recommended not to thin these paints (at least that’s that it says on the can). With the little amount of water I used (probably about a 1/20th ratio if I had to guess), I didn’t notice any adverse effects whatsoever. But, if you can get away with not thinning it, that would be my rec since that’s what the manufacturers recommend…
Have you tried or heard anything about the pro classic with the catalyst? Not really familiar with types of paint and researching to paint my kitchen cabinets. Also you say you used the pro classic but you have a picture of the emerald, which pro classic did you use, sorry for all the questions.
I have personally not used catalysts, but I think they are only used with oil based paints. (That’s a big “I think”…) I know you can add a reducer to water based paints (something like Floetrol) but that is made to increase the dry time. This helps with leveling, but it won’t increase hardness of the paint. If you’re looking for a water-based paint with a hard durable finish, I think ProClassic is one of the best water based options that will give you this finish.
Jenny, the problem with SW is there are to many paints with the same name, Pro-Classic, Emerald etc. and many options in those names. You recommend SW Pro-Classic but the can in the photo is Emerald. Also it is very confusing because of the various products in those names. For instance Pro-Classic has oil based (ProClassic Alkyd Interior Enamel), waterborne (ProClassic Waterborne Interior Acrylic Enamel), waterbased (ProClassic Interior Waterbased Acrylic-Alkyd) just to name a few. All of them are supposed to be for baseboards, doors and cabinets. Based on this review I bought a Pro-Classic Waterbased Acrylic-Alkyd to redo my baseboards and do some touch ups on doors. Before I started I did a few test runs on some scrap and I am very disappointed with the results. The paint will not level at all, leaving ugly brush and lap marks. Also it is way to thick to be sprayed with my HVLP. I have used SW paints before on cabinets but at that time I used oil based and it worked perfectly.
Can you please confirm which of the Sherwin Williams products you used, ProClassic or Emerald and what type.
Hi Terry. You are certainly right – there are numerous variations of this type of paint at Sherwin Williams. I actually debated how in depth to get about the different ones in this post without completing turning off readers because I was getting too specific. I personally have used the oil-based ProClassic alkyd Enamel, the waterbased ProClassic Acrylic-Alkyd Enamel and Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel (waterbased). Of course, the oil-based one gives the smoothest finish of all of them (as any oil-based paint would do) but I didn’t mention it in this post since it was focused on the waterbased versions of this type of paint. I will say having used both waterbased versions – ProClassic acrylic-alkyd and Emerald urethane enamel – that I did not experience the issues with leveling and thickness that you mentioned with the ProClassic. I will admit that I’ve only sprayed the Emerald urethane (and it sprayed well), but when painting with the ProClassic Acrylic Alkyd it painted very comparably to the Emerald Urethane. I did use the ProClassic about two years ago – maybe something has changed? I am intrigued and will have to pick up another can just to see if I notice any differences. I actually just used a can of Emerald Urethane Trim yesterday and it’s painting beautifully – sorry I don’t have a more recent experience with ProClassic though. I’m sorry that you experienced what you did with this paint. I would recommend bringing it back and showing them what you found on the scrap wood. It really shouldn’t do what you said and I would guess that they would exchange it for you.
Hi Jenny. I’m finally wrapping up my project and starting to nail up the baseboards and trim. I went back to Sherwin Williams and described the problem to them they were not very helpful and suggested that it may be the brush I was using. At the same time there was a painter picking up materials for a job and he asked me what the problem was. I explained and he asked if I had thinned the paint and I said yes but no more than 5%. He asked me what material I was painting and I explained I am refinishing 1×4 MDF baseboard and 1×3 MDF trim. He gave me the following advice. First lightly sand using 180 grit then clean the boards. Thin the pain but no more than 10%. He told me the secret to get a good finish on these boards is to use a velour roller. He told me to apply a light coat of paint with a velour roller let that dry for 4 to 6 hours and apply a second light coat. Let that cure for 3 to 4 days before nailing them back up. I have to say that using the velour roller really did a great job. The results look just like a spray finish.
Hi Terry. Thank you so much for following up with this information – I know it will be helpful for others to read as well. I will say, seeing the recommendation about velour rollers has given me the idea to do a full comparison of the main types of paint rollers and try to show the different finishes they give, especially when painting cabinets. I will be sure to include velour in this test if it comes recommended by professional painters. Thanks again for this helpful information (although frustrated to hear that SW were of little help…)
Absolutely love the color of your cabinets! I’ve read a few of your posts about how you painted them but didn’t see what color/brand you used. do you mind sharing the color?
Hi! It’s Caldwell Green by Benjamin Moore 🙂
Can you compare insl-x cabinet coat available at Home Depot against these paints and how they match up? I’m interested in seeing what you think
I’m actually working on a video comparing all the main alkyd paints – I think I’ll try to grab a can of this as well to try out. Thanks for the rec!
Hi there! I am in the middle of painting my parents kitchen cabinets. I am using the SW Emerald Urethane Enamel, and just finished the boxes using a brush and roller (they look great!) but want to invest in a sprayer. I read above that you have upgraded to a newer one about a year ago that will spray the paint without thinning if out. Can you share which sprayer you purchased? Any tips/tricks for operating with the SW Emerald paint? TIA!! ~Leslie
Hi Leslie. I LOVE my Wagner Flexio 4000. Wagner makes a slightly cheaper version that’s the Flexio 3500. I personally haven’t used this one, but I have been pleased with their products and have heard good things from others as well, so I’m guessing this one is still good. As far as using it, you really shouldn’t need to add any water to thin the paint out. In fact, most alkyd paints recommend not to thin (but I will say that I personally have thinned when needed and others have told me the same and it’s worked fine, but you really shouldn’t need to with Emerald). Once you get your paint added to your sprayer, find a piece of wood you can test it on. Adjust the flow of paint so you don’t have too much coming out of your sprayer at one time and it’s spraying evenly. Best of luck on your project!!
I am about in the middle of priming my cabinets and will be painting them white. I thought I had decided on Benjamin Moore Advance paint but then saw the note on the can about possibility of yellowing and saw a couple threads talking about this online. Have you experienced this with Advance or other alkyd paints when using lighter colors? The risk made me want to just use latex but I would prefer the alkyd finish.
Thanks for sharing this info with me. Although I knew that oil-based paints and traditional alkyd enamels would yellow over time, I actually didn’t know there was a risk that the hybrid versions could do this. But I looked and saw some of those same experiences you mentioned. Although I’ve used Advance paint in other colors, I haven’t used it in white. I did Behr Alkyd Enamel on the uppers of kitchen cabinets 5 years ago and I have not noticed any yellowing at all. I also used Valspar Cabinet and Furniture paint in white on the cabinets in my camper, but that was only one year ago. Also no yellowing there. Now these are different brands than Advance, but they are the same type of paint, so in my experience I have not seen yellowing with water-based alkyds. Sorry, I know that doesn’t give you a definitive answer on what to choose though.
Have you used gel stain for kitchen cabinets ? What are your thoughts
I personally haven’t used it on a full set of cabinets (just one door to test it out). It works, but applying it can be a little tricky because of the grooves on cabinet doors. I’d highly recommend this tutorial that is specific to using gel stain on cabinet doors. I would also recommend applying a topcoat to protect the stain, because I’ve found it to wear off without that topcoat.
Sorry, I forgot the link! https://generalfinishes.com/videos/how-to-gel-stain-kitchen-cabinets
Hello
After getting a number of prices on having my kitchen cabinets re-painted (they were done by a “professional” in 2019 and have all yellowed) and realized how expensive it is,, I think I am going to try it myself. You mention the different ways you have applied, can you suggest a certain brush to use when priming and painting them?
Thank you
Best of luck on your cabinets – you can definitely do it! I use a 2 inch angled sash brush. Purdy is an excellent brand, but I’ve used other brands with great results with the paints listed in this post (because they level so well).