The Best Paint for Furniture (I’ve tested them ALL!)
I’ve tested over 40 brands of paint and used the six main types of paint on countless pieces of furniture over the last 15 years. This post contains everything you need to know to select the best furniture paint for your specific project.
The six main types of paint for furniture on the market today are: latex paint, chalk paint, milk paint, acrylic paint (all-in-one paint), hybrid alkyd paint and oil-based paint.
Each type of paint has its benefits, and certain brands make the best version of each type of paint. After running side by side tests of all of these different types of paint, I can confidently share with you the pros and cons of each type of paint, as well as the best brands of furniture paint.
If I’ve learned one thing in my side by side tests, it’s that not all paints are created equal.
The Best Furniture Paint IN a NutShell
- For a super smooth, durable finish without a topcoat, choose an alkyd enamel paint
- Best Brand in Side by Side Test: Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Enamel
- For a finish with some natural texture or variation, or for a distressed, chippy finish, go with milk paint
- Best Brand: all brands are VERY similar
- For an easy to apply, smooth finish with the option to topcoat, choose an “all-in-one” acrylic paint
- Best Brand in Side by Side Test: General Finishes Milk Paint and Rainbow The One
- For an easy to apply, textured finish that needs a topcoat, reach for chalk paint
- Best Brand in Side by Side Test: Behr Chalk Decorative Paint
This post will equip you with the knowledge to make an informed decision on the right paint for your next furniture project.
This post was originally published in 2016 and has been updated frequently as new types of paint and brands of paint have been released AND I’ve tested them on furniture and in side by side tests. All information in this post is current in 2025.
I hope this post is informative and helpful in some way. If you have any questions about the specific piece of furniture you are hoping to paint, please reach out!
Five Best Types of Paint for Furniture
I’ve recently switched up the order of this post to arrange the types of paint in the order of popularity in 2025 (at least based on what I see most often used on social media to gauge “popularity”).
It doesn’t mean the first paint listed is the best, but I will say they tend to progress in order of ease of use.
All-in-One (ACRYLIC) Paint
Most specialty furniture paint is a form of acrylic paint. In the last several years, the term “All-in-One-Paint” has been used on a lot of different brands of specialty paint. A paint with this label means that you don’t need a primer or a topcoat when painting furniture.
Overview
Based on the investigating I’ve done, most of these paints are a form of acrylic enamel, often with a primer built into the paint.
Common Brands and Cost
- Melange ONE Paint
- Fusion Mineral Paint
- General Finishes Milk Paint (NOT actually milk paint at all – it’s just part of the name)
- Rainbow The One Paint
- Amy Howard All in One
- Beyond All in One
- Heirloom Furniture Paint
The cost of a quart of all-in-one paint ranges from $36 – $50.
PROS – ALL IN ONE PAINT
- Can be used for both interior and exterior applications.
- Some brands don’t require top coat, while others need one due to scuffing. I recommend using a top coat for extra durability.
- Most brands level well, leaving very little to no brush strokes.
- Slightly longer drying time than chalk or milk paint, giving extra flexibility to catch drips or imperfections.
- I’ve seen people say (and many brands claim) you don’t need to sand prior to using this paint. Personally, I always lightly scuff up the surface with 220 sandpaper and it always has adhered perfectly. Either way, it’s less prep than most other paints require.
CONS – ALL IN ONE PAINT
- Most expensive kind of furniture paint.
- It used to be difficult to find and only sold at specialty stores, but now most of these brands are available online (on Amazon).
- None of these brands can be fully custom colored. Some have a wide variety of color choices, while others have less. To get a custom color, you’ll need to mix paints of the same brand, which can be a crap shoot.
Tips for Using on Furniture
- This is the most straightforward of all of these types of paint. Lightly sand, and then start painting!
- If you see a drip or puddle, there’s usually time to go back with your brush to fix it.
- I use a water-based topcoat if I need a strong finish on a piece (painted dresser tops, table tops, etc.)
Best All-In-One Paint Brand
My favorite brand of all-in-one paint is General Finishes Milk Paint, with Rainbow The One in a close second. General Finishes has been around longer than most of these other new all-in-one paints that are popping up, and I think there’s a reason for that. It performed the best in my side by side test for its ease of application, leveling to a smooth finish, and durability to withstand a scratch test on tile.
Here’s a link to my video break down of this side by side test of all-in-one furniture paints.
Uses for Acrylic Paint
I’ve found a use for this paint practically everywhere. I think it’s a fabulous paint to use if you’re new to painting furniture, because it doesn’t require much prep, and is very easy and forgiving to paint with.
This is one of the types of paint I will use to paint cabinets (both kitchen and bathroom) with beautiful results (specifically General Finishes Milk Paint). It’s durable and cleans up well once cured.
So, if it’s good enough for high-use cabinets, it’s definitely good enough for furniture! (I also use Alkyd Enamel on cabinets which is described below.)
Pieces Painted with All-in-One Paint
Alkyd Urethane Enamel Paint
Overview
Water-based alkyd paint is a fairly new type of paint that hardware stores have started to carry over the past couple of years. This is one of the best kitchen cabinet paints and I also love using it for furniture as well.
Basically, it applies as a water-based paint but dries as an oil-based paint finish. It levels perfectly and is the most durable paint (besides oil-based paint) in this post.
I have a detailed post describing this paint and how it’s used on cabinets, which is very comparable to use on furniture. I also share the prices of each brand of paint as well as all the different name labels you’ll find this type of paint listed as.
Common Brands and Cost
- Sherwin Williams ProClassic Alkyd Enamel
- Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Enamel (waterbased)
- Valspar Cabinet and Furniture Paint
- Benjamin Moore Advance
- Dutch Boy Cabinet, Door, and Trim
- Behr Urethane Alkyd
- Insl-X Cabinet Coat
The price of a quart of alkyd enamel paint ranges from $22 – $45.
PROS – ALKYD PAINT
- It levels beautifully, which means it’s almost impossible to see brush strokes. It gives you lots of work time when the paint is still “open” to fix mistakes (meaning you can brush over it again and it will still level in)
- It cures to a durable finish which can be wiped down easily and resists marks and scratches.
- There are different types of sheens – matte (in some brands) all the way to semi-gloss – but none of them need a topcoat.
- Every hardware store now carries a version of alkyd paint and it can be color-matched to most swatch colors.
CONS – ALKYD PAINT
- I recommend priming before using this type of paint for the best adhesion.
- It’s more expensive than normal wall paint.
- It takes longer than other types of paint to fully cure. (It dries to the touch in a few hours, but don’t place anything on top of it or close any doors or drawers for at least a week.)
Tips for Using on Furniture
This is becoming a front runner for the type of paint I grab when painting furniture. It’s super easy to use, and I love that I can pick it up at my local hardware store.
Plus, I’ve been super pleased with the durability on pieces of furniture, and on the four different sets of kitchen cabinets that I’ve used it on. (In fact, one of the brands of this paint is my pick for the best paint for cabinets!)
Best Brand of Alkyd Paint
After a side-by-side comparison test of all of these brands of paint, the paint that outperformed the rest was Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel.
There were a couple of budget-friendly options that also performed almost comparably and surprised me. Here’s the link to the full side by side test of alkyd paints for cabinets.
Pieces Painted with Alkyd Paint
Chalk Paint
Overview
I’m sure you’ve heard of it. Chalk paint took the furniture refinishing world by storm over 20 years ago. It’s a chalky, water-based paint that requires very little prep work. It finishes in a soft, matte finish.
For a long time, chalk paint was the most popular type of paint to use on furniture for its ease of use. Now, I’ve seen acrylic “All-in-One” paints take the leader position when it comes to painting furniture.
I recently compared all the major brands of chalk paint (13 of them!) in a side by side test to determine which brand of chalk paint was the best. Here’s the full post on my recommendation of the best chalk paint based on the results!
Common Brands and Cost
- Annie Sloan Chalk Paint (the one that started it all, and also the most expensive!)
- Magnolia Chalk Style Paint (Target, Ace Hardware, Lowes) – also available as spray paint
- Dixie Bell Chalk Finish Paint (online, independent)
- Melange Mineral Paint (online, independent)
- Rustoleum Chalked Paint (Menards, Home Depot, Lowes, Amazon) – also available as spray paint
- Behr Chalk Decorative Paint (Home Depot) – Full Review of Behr Chalk Paint
- Krylon Chalk Style Paint (Lowes)
- Waverly Chalk Paint (Walmart)
- Mud Paint (online, independent)
- Country Chic Paint (Amazon)
The price of a quart of chalk paint ranges from $20 – $45.
PROS – CHALK PAINT
- Minimal prep work – you almost never need to sand or prime
- It dries really quickly – 2nd coat can be applied in an hour
- Easy to distress to create a shabby-chic look
- Silky and velvety to the touch once it dries
- Made by every major paint manufacturer (here’s a full post comparing all of the best chalk paint brands)
CONS – CHALK PAINT
- Dries very quickly, which means that brush strokes show up much more easily.
- Thicker than other types of paint (it can be thinned with water, though)
- You need to apply a topcoat. It’s a porous paint and will absorb anything that gets on it.
Tips for Use on Furniture
- You really don’t need to sand before painting. (I’ve tested this to be true.)
- I’ve found that if I add water to the paint (at about a 5%-10% ratio) it’s the perfect thickness. This also helps to create a smoother finish with less brush strokes (if that’s the look you’re going for).
- In order to avoid brush marks, leave the paint alone once you’ve painted it on. Sometimes, it’s tempting to go back to a spot that’s already been painted to perfect it. Don’t do it with chalk paint! It dries quickly, and if you go back, you’ll feel your brush dragging through the paint, and it will leave more brush strokes than were there before.
Best Chalk Paint Brand
My favorite budget brand of chalk paint is Behr Chalk Decorative Paint. Dixie Bell and Melange are my favorite specialty chalk paints. The benefit to Behr chalk paint is that you can get it color matched to any color swatch, which allows you to completely custom your project.
There are a few brands of chalk paint I will never use again – this post compares all chalk paints side by side and gives all the details.
Uses for Chalk Paint
I enjoy using chalk paint to create a rustic, matte finish. It will show some texture (especially if you use a chalk paint brush). If I’m wanting to distress to show the wood underneath or if I want a super flat finish, I use chalk paint finished with matte wax.
This is the best paint for laminate furniture without priming because it adheres so well.
You can also make your own chalk paint! I’ve compared the four most popular chalk paint recipes and found the best DIY chalk paint.
Pieces Painted with Chalk Paint
Milk Paint
Overview
Milk paint is an all-natural paint made with, you guessed it, milk protein! It’s been used for centuries and creates a natural, old-world look. Milk paint is known for creating a chippy look, but it actually is fairly versatile and can be used to create different finishes. I wrote a FULL, very detailed post (and video) on milk paint.
Note: Some companies are now making pre-mixed “milk paint”, but it’s technically not milk paint. Instead, it just gives a finish that is similar to milk paint. I have no problem with the pre-mixed kind, but as I describe the type of paint below, just know that I’m talking about true, powder-based milk paint.
Common Brands and Cost
- Miss Mustard Seed Milk Paint
- The Real Milk Paint Co.
- Old Fashioned Milk Paint
- Fusion Milk Paint
- Tuscana Milk Paint
The price of enough powder to make a quart of paint ranges from $25-$35.
PROS – MILK PAINT
- Made from all-natural ingredients with no VOCs or chemicals.
- It comes in a powder form, so you only mix up the amount you plan to use.
- You can add a bonding agent to the paint that ensures it will adhere to furniture that has already been finished.
- It penetrates the pores of unfinished wood. If you strip a piece of furniture or find an unfinished piece, milk paint won’t just sit on the surface, it will actually penetrate the wood.
CONS – MILK PAINT
- Can be a tad bit unpredictable if you’re applying it without the bonding agent on pre-finished wood. It’s difficult to know just how much it will chip until you actually apply it.
- It may chip more over time if the bonding agent is not used. If you apply a water-based topcoat, it will minimize the chipping, but it’s still unpredictable.
- After it’s mixed, you need to use it. There’s no storing the paint on the shelf to touch up the piece in a couple of months. Remember, it’s made of milk protein… You’ll have a smelly, sour milk mess if you try to keep it.
Tips for Using on Furniture
- If the thought of chippy paint scares you, use the bonding agent. You can apply less than the suggested amount and you might get a little bit of chipping. But then again, you might not. (Remember, it’s unpredictable!) If you apply the suggested amount of bonding agent and sand your piece, you won’t have any chipping.
- I always sand pieces before I paint, but especially if I plan to use milk paint without the bonding agent. I’ve found that if I don’t sand and don’t use the bonding agent, the paint does not adhere. The paint sticks to the places you sand more. If you miss a spot, you’ll see chipping in that area (without the bonding agent).
Best Brand of Milk Paint
To be honest, every brand of true milk paint (in the powder form), has performed similarly to any other brand.
I don’t have a favorite brand, and I actually have mixed different brands of paint to achieve custom colors and it’s worked just fine. (I wouldn’t ever do that with any of the other brands of paint, but milk paint is such a natural paint and similar in it’s basic nature, it just works!)
Uses for Milk Paint
I love using milk paint to make washes for unfinished wood. By adding extra water when I mix the paint, it shows off the grain of the wood beautifully.
Besides that, I like to use milk paint when I want a really natural look and maybe even some variation in the finish. The way the different natural color pigments paint on furniture can be really beautiful and unique!
Although they can create similar finished, milk paint is not the same as chalk paint. I have a full post comparing the two here: milk paint vs chalk paint
Pieces Painted with Milk Paint
Wall Paint
Overview
With all of the other options that have been made in the last several years, wall paint has become a less popular option for painting furniture. However, there are some uses I’ve found for this type of paint, which is the least expensive option!
“Wall” paint is the type of paint you can buy from any hardware store. It’s water-based and comes in a variety of sheens ranging from flat to gloss. I struggled with what to call it, because the components in the paint are different depending one which type you buy.
Based on my experience, I would avoid anything that only says “latex” on the can. (You’ll usually find this at the bottom of the label on the front, but some brands I’ve noticed don’t actually list it anywhere on the can. #nothelpful)
A general rule of thumb seems to be that the lower the grade of the wall paint (in other words, the cheaper the price), it is probably latex based. The more expensive and higher grade cans of wall paint generally seem to be acrylic. Therefore, I would recommend choosing a middle grade (price) of paint from the home improvement store rather than the cheapest if you want to use wall paint for your furniture.
“Acrylic Enamel” would be the best phrase to look for when using wall paint on furniture. However, acrylic wall paint won’t adhere as well as acrylic “all-in-one” paints so I would recommend priming before using acrylic wall paint.
Common Brands and Cost
- Dutch Boy (Menards)
- Pittsburgh Paint (Menards)
- Behr (The Home Depot)
- Valspar (Lowes and Ace Hardware)
- Sherwin Williams
- Benjamin Moore
Cost for a quart of paint ranges anywhere from $15 – $30.
Pros and Cons to Using Wall Paint on Furniture
PROS – WALL PAINT
- Least expensive type of paint
- Can be tinted to any color
- It comes in many different sheens (flat, eggshell, satin, semi-gloss, gloss)
- Glossier sheens (satin, semi-gloss, gloss) don’t need a top coat
CONS – WALL PAINT
- You need to sand and prime before painting (here’s how to prime furniture before painting)
- Wall paint that is 100% latex does not give a nice finish on furniture. I find it to get gummy as time goes on, and it peels, chips and flakes much easier than other paints.
Tips for Use with Furniture
- PREP and PRIME!
- Avoid the word latex if you can (acrylic-latex is okay)
- Do not use if you’re looking for a distressed or worn finish – it doesn’t sand down in a natural way.
- Use a top coat if you are using flat or matte. No topcoat needed if using eggshell (enamel), satin, semi-gloss, or gloss
Uses for Wall Paint
Wall paint works really well on raw, unfinished wood. If painting on finished furniture, I would highly recommend priming before painting. Then, choose a wall paint that has “enamel” in the name and you should be set to not need a topcoat.
To use wall paint without sanding or priming, you can turn it into a chalk paint. This is actually the only way I will use regular wall paint on finished furniture (both the teal and pink dresser were painted with DIY chalk paint). Here is my favorite chalk paint recipe.
Pieces Painted with Wall Paint
Oil-Based Paint
Overview
Oil-based paint is the least popular option for painting furniture due to the high levels of VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) and difficulty with clean up and proper disposal. To be honest, oil paint does give the most durable and smooth finish of off of the paints listed in this post.
However, considering the advancements in paint technology and the formulas that have been engineered to mimic the properties of oil-based in a far more environmentally-friendly option, it has almost become obsolete.
Oil-based paint in a can (for brushing and rolling or spraying) is difficult to find in home improvement stores nowadays, and you aren’t able to color match these paints.
On the other hand, spray paint is an oil-based paint and is still easy to find in a wide array of colors at any home improvement store.
Pros and Cons to Using Oil-Based Paint on Furniture
PROS – OIL-BASED PAINT
- Levels very well without brush marks.
- Dries to a durable, tough finish without the need for a topcoat.
CONS – OIL-BASED PAINT
- High amounts of VOCs and very smelly.
- Can only be cleaned up with mineral spirits or paint thinner and excess needs to be properly disposed of at a hazardous waste facility.
- Takes longer than any other paint to fully cure.
Tips for Use with Furniture
- Sand the piece with 220 grit sandpaper prior to painting.
- Wear a respirator and paint in a well ventilated area.
- Clean up your brush with mineral spirits and use this method to clean oil-based paint off your skin.
- Dispose of excess paint at a hazardous waste facility (or even better, use it on another project)
- Let it dry for at least a week and do not set anything on the surface or allow doors/drawers to close.
Uses for Oil-Based Paint
Honestly, I don’t use oil paint on furniture unless I’m using spray paint. I personally only use spray paint for smaller pieces and craft projects. If I want to spray a larger piece like a dresser or cabinet, I just use my paint sprayer and one of the water-based options described above.
I do LOVE the convenience of spray paint for smaller home decor projects, though.
What’s the Best Paint for Furniture?
The best paint for furniture largely depends on the look you want and the piece you are painting.
The two kinds of paint I most often reach for are alkyd paints and acrylic (all-in-one) paints. They are both super easy to paint with and give a really nice finish.
I also love using milk paint if I want to create a layered paint finish or when painting raw wood. I often reach for chalk paint if I’m working on a small project like a frame, or even glass or ceramic crafts, usually for holiday decor.
After choosing the type of paint you want to use on your project, you should check out all my other posts on refinishing furniture.
When to Prime Furniture Before Painting
Although it’s not always necessary, there will definitely be times when you need to prime your furniture before painting, including if you are painting over raw wood, water or other stains, or species of wood that will bleed through the paint.
This post should answer everything you need to know about priming furniture or cabinets (and my personal favorite brands and types of primers.)
BEST Tips For Painting Furniture
If you’re ready to start painting, I have a full post describing everything you need to know on how to paint furniture. This posts breaks down the step by step process for getting a beautiful and durable finish every time you paint a piece of furniture.
So much of furniture painting is trial and error. Once you use a certain type of paint, you’ll figure out how best to use it and your own personal preferences. If you’ve never painted a piece of furniture but have been thinking about it, give it a try. You’ll be impressed with yourself.
Post by Jenny Leads
Jenny is the voice behind Refresh Living. She has a passion for helping people to create a home they love without spending a lot of money.
Thank you for putting this guide together! I am a total newbie to furniture painting, and am almost ready to start my first teeny project, painting an old desk chair from my childhood. This info will help me figure out which paint to use.
I’m so glad to hear it was helpful, Angela!
HI Jenny, I also love this article and I too am a newbie, which brings me to my question because I’m still not sure of how to proceed. I have a French provincial dresser I’m planning to refinish for my 4 year old granddaughter. This dresser was already stripped once and refinished only with 2-3 coats of a polyurethane top, no stain. My plan is to strip it, sand it, prime it and paint it white. Id like it to have some sheen maybe between an eggshell and satin. My question is, what paint would be best for this job? Should I also give it a protective top coat, if so, what product? How many coats of each thing? Should I sand at all between coats? I don’t want any distressing or chipping. I guess these are more than one question but I’d really appreciate your input. Thank you in advance.
Hi Beatriz! I have a couple ideas of what I would do to get the type of finish you want. If the finish on the dresser is in good condition right now (no peeling or chipping) then you probably don’t even have to strip and sand it, which will save you a TON of time! However, if it was finished with polyurethane, you’ll want to prime it (like you said) because polyurethane yellows overtime and it may bleed through white paint. As far as the paint, I would recommend General Finishes paint. It gives a very subtle sheen (I’d equate it to an eggshell), covers really nicely, and I love to use it when I don’t plan to distress at all. I’ve used this paint without a topcoat and it holds up well, but I think for your dresser you’ll probably want a topcoat. You can buy regular Polyacrylic at most Home Improvement stores, but I’ve only seen it in satin and gloss finish, so it will probably end up being shinier than you want. General Finishes makes an acrylic topcoat in flat (I think it’s called High Performance Topcoat in Flat) and it gives an eggshell/satin finish. I used to use Polyacrylic, but once I tried GF topcoats, I was hooked and will never go back. With that being said, they are more expensive, so that is definitely something to consider. As for the number of coats, because you are priming, you’ll probably only need to do 2-3 coats of white paint (a quart will be plenty for a dresser). I always lightly sand between paint coats, but not after the final coat. Same goes with the topcoat. Lightly sand between topcoats (2 coats is usually what I do), but you won’t sand after the final coat. You’ll want use a fine grit sandpaper (220 grit). Sorry for the lengthy response. I hope it was helpful! Let me know if you have other questions, and best of luck on your dresser!
Jenny is right-on! I tried using Minwax Polycrylic and it was awful. I only did a small section before stopping and returning it to Home Depot. I then went to my neighborhood professional paint store and asked what they recommend for a top coat poly. I already had General Finishes in mind but wanted to know what the “expert” would say. He said, General Finished High Performance. I told him I tried Minwax and he said that is the worst product now. They used to be great but he said that the company was sold and ever since- the quality has been horrible. BTW- GF has a flat option, too, if you want the flat, matte look.
Thank you for this post. I’ve just finished an old table (found by the street) and it did not turn out like I wanted it to. Oh well, I can always do over.
Yes, you definitely can! Plus, it was on a piece that was going to be thrown away anyway, so no harm!
This is a fantastic post!! Love it. Just pinned it to one of my biggest DIY group boards because people should read this!
Oh, thank you so much, Bre. I’m so glad you liked it and are sharing it for others!
This is a fantastic post!!! Thank you for this post. Just Love it.
Milk paint seems really interesting, I never heard of it’s existence before. Those example pictures you gave for it look really incredible though, I’d love to try it on something of mine. The older weathered look is one of my favorite things to have on my furniture.
Yes, milk paint is definitely the one I would say is for you! It’s really fun to work with because it’s so different than all the others. Thanks for visiting!
Thanks for your help!
I’m glad it was helpful!
I just embarked on my first chalk paint project. I am painting a laminate bedroom set. I didn’t know exactly the color I wanted when I started – but thought I would try the Annie Sloan Pure White color to see how it would go with the room. After trying that- I knew it was wrong and wanted to aim for a Benjamin Moore Revere Pewter. I decided to paint over the AS pure white with a flat latex deeper color Brandon Beige that I had on hand to provide a better base for the next color. Then I mixed the flat latex with the pure white AS chalk paint- half and half- and painted the entire set. The color is perfect- and what I thought was brilliant to begin with- now I wonder if I have made a big mistake by using the latex on the furniture- though mixed with chalk pain. Do you have any experience with mixing chalk paint with latex? Also- what do you think would be best for the finish- wax or a varathane? thanks! Bev
Hi Bev – Don’t worry at all, I think by mixing the latex and chalk paint you should be totally fine. The chalk paint gave your latex more gripping power, so I’m sure it’s adhering just fine. Honestly, you would have been able to tell right away if they weren’t mixing properly or if it wasn’t sticking well. As for the finish, wax will give a very low sheen, soft finish, and any type of poly will give a shinier finish (with a little more durability). Either one should work well, it’s more of just an aesthetic choice. I’m so glad you shared this and to know it worked out! Good luck finishing up your piece!
This is SO helpful!! Thanks for this post Jenny!
Thanks so much Heather! I’m glad it is helpful.
Jenny, Thanks for an excellent explanation of the different paint types. I’ve only used chalk paint (the one in your photo) and absolutely love working with it. I would love to try the General Finishes ~ just need to find it.
You’re so welcome – I’m glad it was helpful! I use chalk paint for a lot of projects, but now that I’ve tried a couple of others, they are my favorites for certain types of projects. I’ve noticed that General Finishes seems to be putting paint in a lot more retailers in my area (you can go to their website and search your location) or I know they also carry it on Amazon if you were wanting to give it a try. Happy furniture painting!
That’s great info! Thanks for all the tips here Jenny. I had no idea about all those details and my next attempt with chalk paint is to paint a part of a rug with it, not the whole thing, just on the sides. Any thoughts?? Thanks for linking up at Sweet Inspiration #2, have a fantastic weekend!
I’ve heard you can paint rugs and upholstery with chalk paint, but I’ve never tried. I wonder if you’d need to top coat it, or if it penetrates differently into the fiber where it won’t rub/scratch off? Let me know how it goes!
When using chalk paint, such as ASCP, you just use a spray bottle with water in it. Spray the fabric FIRST, lightly but enough to dampen without saturating it. Mix paint about 40-60 water: :paint. Yes, that makes it very watery. It’s what you want. Thick layers will result in chipped paint on fabric. So, just spray water, paint with watered down paint, wait for the layer to dry, lightly sand. Repeat. It may take up to 6 coats to get the paint opaque, so be patient. After final coat- soft wax.
I painted a horrific fabric bench in Annie Sloan’s Scandinavian Pink. It looks beautiful now. It doesn’t crack and the wax keeps it protected.
I forgot to mention- you can also paint other materials such as leather! I painted a 90’s leather chair that was in great condition, but the color was dated. YES- you can paint leather with chalk paint! Use about 30% water: 70% paint mix instead. No need to be exact, but it can be thicker than painting fabric since you don’t want it to drip. The most important thing- keep thin layers between coats to avoid cracking (unless that’s the look you want). Thicken it if the paint runs/drips. The process is the same as above for fabric. Number of layers will be less because leather or vinyl isn’t as porous as fabric, but the results are the same. Don’t forget to soft wax at the end. I wax about 2 layers for areas that are not used as much (outside back and side of chairs) and 3 layers of soft wax on the seat, back and arms.
Is it possible to turn gloss latex paint into the chalk paint to use on the top of a dining table? Or would it be better to paint with it “as-is” and then maybe even add a top coat of clear poly?
Hi Heather – I don’t think gloss latex paint would mix well with the calcium carbonate, but I’ve honestly never tried. I would probably just paint it with a more matte paint and then cover it with a top coat. A clear polyacrylic would be the best, because it doesn’t yellow over time like polyurethane. Good luck!
This post is amazing! I’ve always been an artsy person, so getting into furniture repainting just seemed right. That being said, I had no idea what paint to go with. This post has helped a ton, thank you so much!!! I’m not a huge fan of distressed stuff, and I like keeping things simple, so I think acrylic will be the best bet for me.
Thank you so much for this post. This is exactly the information I’ve been looking for, and more!!
This was so helpful! Thanks! I’m wanting to redo my kitchen table, chairs and stools. They have the wood butcher block tops and hunger green legs!
I am going to look into the General Finishes paints now. I wonder if they are durable enough for the chair seats? I wasn’t sure if I should leave those wood or paint them. They need to be sanded and a new coat of poly at least. It would be so much easier just to paint them!
I can totally picture your kitchen table set! I’ve used General Finishes on a lot of pieces, but not chair seats, yet. My thought is that it would probably hold up pretty well, because I’ve use it on dressers and table legs without sealing and it has been fine. But, just to be safe, you could add a topcoat which should really be fine. Because you are doing chairs, you might actually want to splurge and just get a couple of cans of clear topcoat (Polyacrylic or another acrylic based topcoat). It will save you a lot of time in the long run, because painting poly on spindles is no fun at all. Oh, one more thing. If you wanted to change the color of the stain of the seats without sanding, General Finishes makes a gel stain that “restains” over existing finishes. You’d just need to do a light hand sand rather than strip them all the way down. Good luck!!
I am painting a dresser and thinking of going with the acrylic milk paint – do you have a favorite brush or roller you like to use?
I actually just use regular paint brushes from the hardware store and they always work well for me. As for rollers, I also use foam rollers, but I’m not partial to any particular brand. Good luck on your dresser!
Have you tried Repurpose Recolor paint yet? If so how does it compare to the others? That sell it in a store near me and they said it’s easier than chalk paint. I want to paint a couple of old wooden dressers.
Awesome post! I have a question… I’m in the middle of painting my pedastool oak table and started with valspar furniture paint but not real happy with results. Can I paint over that with milk paint? Same color ?
Hi Amanda. Thanks for the question. I don’t really like using milk paint to paint over something that’s previously painted, unless I’m trying to do a distressed, two color layer finish. Although, if you do milk paint with the bonding agent, it will probably work and stick just fine to the first layer paint. I’d make sure to do a topcoat (and maybe you already were planning on it) if you do paint with milk (or chalk) paint on a table, because it will see quite a bit of use/wear and tear. I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Hi there! I feel like I have read & reread this post multiple times to try to figure out which paint option would work best for my first “major” project. I’m pretty crafty, and love decorating. I’ve painted an entire bedroom set for my daughter, ( I feel like I just used a latex paint with a poly top coat). For the end tables I want to start (I’m terrified to start them because in my head, I want them to look a certain way.) They’re older tables, not too shiny at all. I want them to be closer to a matte finish ( a little sheen is OK), and I’d like to try a little distressing around the edges. What would you suggest that I try? For some reason, I’m a little interested in the milk or chalk paint, but the wax coat makes me nervous (I don’t know why)…because I’m afraid I’ll do it “wrong.” Any particular brand you’d recommend? You mentioned Janesville so I figured whatever products you used I could probably get a hold of (I’m about an hour away…Union Grove, and we have a permanent place in Milton, so I know the area). Thanks for any help/advice!
I think it sounds like you could use chalk paint and probably be really happy with it. The great thing about it is you don’t have to use a wax as your topcoat, you can definitely just use a regular clear one. If you do end up going that route, I’d recommend an acrylic top coat (because it won’t yellow over time). I think you might be able to find matte or “eggshell” like topcoats in home improvement stores now, as most stores are carrying more furniture painting supplies. My favorite topcoat is General Finishes High Performance topcoat in Flat, but they only carry it in specialty stores and online. Let me know if you have any questions – I hope that helped!
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for the detailed post! I have read this too many times to count while trying to decide the best plan of action for the project I am working on, maybe you can help? I am painting a nursery set for our baby boy on the way this summer, its a new set, but I didn’t want white so I need to paint it. It seems like the General Finishes Milk Paint would be a great choice in terms of durability, but I am not sure if the colors will work, especially since I can’t see them in person, just online. So I was thinking of possibly making my own chalk paint using your tutorial with a latex paint, and then using the General Finishes Top Coat you mentioned. Do you think that would hold up well in a child’s room? Also, do you know if the DIY chalk and Acrylic top coat are OK to use while pregnant?
Thanks again!
Hi Jenna, I’m sorry I didn’t get back to you sooner. Yes, I think a homemade chalk paint with the acrylic topcoat will work and hold up well! For the chalk paint, I would recommend using calcium carbonate instead of plaster of paris – I like the way it paints and the finish much better with calcium carbonate. As for safety, an acrylic is very similar in terms of safety as latex paint is. I use both when pregnant, just make sure that the space you are painting in is ventilated (as is recommended no matter what). I usually wear a simple mask when I’m pregnant and painting, but you’ll find the fumes to be pretty minimal with both latex and acrylic. I hope that helps. Good luck with your piece of furniture and congratulations on the upcoming little baby!
Quick question
I am going to paint chairs and a table. I’m leaving the wood seat and table top unpainted for now. Your post for different kinds of paint is very helpful. I want to use latex paint. Since I am a newbie at this, I have read a lot in order to get started. Can I use a primer/paint combo like your picture of Valspar in this article, or do I need to separate the steps and primer everything with a primer only, sand it, and then apply paint it with latex only?
Hi Katie! I think it would depend on what type of finish you are painting over. If you’re painting over an unfinished wood, I would just go with a paint/primer in one. For furniture with a glossy finish, I always prime first, and then apply latex paint (that usually has the primer in it as well). With that being said, I’ve never tried to use a paint/primer latex paint over a glossy piece of furniture, so it might work, but I don’t really know. Sorry that wasn’t very helpful!
Thanks for this post post, it is so informative! I do have a question if you don’t mind helping me out.
My husband builds dining tables. Usually we just stain and poly the tabletops, but we have a client who wants a distressed white tabletop. We are planning to stain the wood dark and then paint over it, and sand to distress. What kind of paint do you recommend? We need the finish to be hard and durable – no scratching off of cracking.
Thanks so much!
Hmm. So if they want it truly white on top, you’ll want to put polyacrylic over the stained wood, I think, and then put the white paint over it. If you just put the white paint over the stained wood, it will be more of a gray distressed look, like this wall. So when painting over poly (I would also lightly sand it to rough it up) you’ll need a paint that has good grip. I think I would use General Finishes acrylic paint. It’s tougher than chalk paint for sure. However, with that being said, since you’re doing it on a tabletop, I would still be sure to seal it with a couple of coats of clear acrylic. I hope it works out! I would do a test application on a piece of scrap wood first to be sure that’s the finish they are looking for. Let me know if you have other questions!
Thank you, Jenny! I really appreciate your advice!
Thanks so much for this post; it’s so helpful! I do have a question for you: I’m painting a dresser that I’m going to convert to a vanity (probably add marble on the top to do so). I think, based on what you wrote, that the acrylic option would be best (with the top coat you recommended).
Is there anything I’m missing here? In other words, is there some other sort of top coat or treatment I should be sure to use when doing a vanity rather than a dresser? Thank you so much!
Hi Bree. Sounds like a fun project! Yes, I think that the acrylic paint would work best for that. I actually painted my bathroom vanity with General Finishes and it’s holding up really well. Good luck!
Hi Jenny thanks for the post but I’m a tad bit confused & hope that you will be able to help me out?
I have bought a few months ago 2 bedside tables that have been white washed but now I have noticed that under the coasters that there are water marks, obviously or should I rather say expect that they have not been vanished or sealant added to the finish. Being OCD (haha) I’ve also noticed a few chip marks or places (like the back) have not been properly painted.
I have heard that you can buy white wash paint that has a sealant or vanish added to it but then that mean that I have to prep the Whole table or can it be used to for a touch up?
Now my confusion comes to what paint can I use to touch up these unsightly chips etc?
Hope that you will be able to give me some insight to my little dilemma?
Hi Charlotte. Here is what I’m thinking about what you said. The water marks could have actually been in the wood prior to painting. Sometimes paint can hide water marks for a little bit, but then they eventually show through. Or, like you said, they could be from the tables not being sealed. Water marks are tough to get rid of. What I would recommend is a sealant to cover the water marks, and then to dry brush a white paint over that part to try to hide the mark. Miss Mustard Seed’s Tough Coat should work really well. The trouble with matching it is that without knowing the type of paint used, it will be pretty hard to match it exactly. Luckily, whites are usually similar and you probably will be able to get away with matching it pretty well. I haven’t heard of white wash paint with sealant in it before, but that certainly doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist, I just haven’t used it. A true white wash is actually supposed to penetrate the wood (similar to a stain) and really should chip at all. However, if it was added on top of something that had already been sealed or painted, the “whitewash” will come off easily if it’s not sealed. You can actually use that Tough Coat as a topcoat sealer too for the whole piece. Okay, so I would add the touch coat over the water stains, get a little white paint (you could probably get away with using white acrylic paint from craft stores, actually, or a chalk paint will work well too) on your brush. Dab off most of the paint onto a wet paper towel, and then lightly brush over the spots and places that are chipping. After you’ve touched up the spots, I would go over the tables with a sealant. Let me know if you have any other questions and how it ends up going. Good luck!
Hi Jenny,
thank you for such an informative post..
I am planning to chalk paint my dresser and night stand.. But I was thinking, after the chalk paint do I have to wax the furniture or can I leave that part?? Annie Sloan chalk paint and wax , together they will be expensive, that’s why I am thinking is there any way to leave the waxing part to save money!! Or is there any other inexpensive proces to protect the paint? Because we keep water bottles,, coffee mug on top of the night stand..
Hope that you can give me any solution… thank you..
Hi Zannat,
Yes, you’re right in that you’d definitely want to protect it. There is a cheaper furniture wax made by Minwax. It’s sold in home improvement stores, but here is what it looks like. Also, I often use a clear acrylic (either spray or brush on) over chalk paint instead of wax and it gives it durability as well. Best of luck on your project!
Hi Jenny, this post is exactly what I’ve been looking for. I’ve read through it but would still like to double check with you on how I should proceed 🙂 we painted unfinished kitchen chairs a light blue color 2 years ago. I have two young boys, so you can imagine the beating they get. They are stained, hard to clean, and the paint is already coming off around the seat edges, tops of the chair backs, etc. I believe my husband used a primer and two coats of latex paint using his compressor. What type of paint would be more durable and easier to clean? And with the paint you recommend, can I get a very specific color? Thank you so so much for your help, i’m really hoping that when we paint these again it will last longer than 2 years and be easier to keep clean!
Hi Bridget! Yes, I can totally imagine the beating those chairs take! It sounds like he painted it just the way he should, but unfortunately any type of paint will wear over time with lots of use. I personally prefer acrylic based paint and find it holds up best when I use a polyacrylic top coat over it. I love General Finishes, but they don’t offer a custom color mixing, which is definitely a drawback. They actually also have a chalky type paint too, in different colors, but it’s much less chalky than any other paints, and I personally would still use it on chairs with a top coat because it wears pretty well. I think you could also do a chalk type paint (Rustoleum makes one now that is sold in hardware stores, and you can get it custom color mixed I believe.) I think my best advice would be to make sure to give whatever paint you choose a couple layers of an acrylic top coat. Let me know if you have other questions. Good luck!
Hi Jenny,
I’m so happy to have found you! I painted all of my kitchen cabinets white, with AS chalk paint. They turned out great, just not real happy with some streaks I have after waxing. I decided to do the island a navy blue. Well, it’s a disaster – roller marks, streaks from wax, etc. So….I have decided to paint the island with the GF milk paint. Most of the island has not been waxed. But the doors and drawers have been. Can I paint right over the wax or do I have to either use mineral spirits or sand it to get it off? Also, can I just repaint over the chalk paint ( the parts of the island that has no wax)? Thank you so much!!
Yes, as long as the wax has cured (which I think takes quite awhile, perhaps a few weeks?) you can paint directly over it. I’ve actually only painted over cured wax with chalk paint, but I really think that GF milk paint will adhere just fine. I would use a 220 sand paper to give it a little grit prior to painting, but you shouldn’t need to completely remove it. And yes, you can definitely just paint over the chalk paint with no problem at all. Let me know if you have any other questions. I would actually love to hear if the GF paints well over the cured wax. I hate to give you advice without being 100% sure, but I’m pretty sure it will work!
You are not alone. I have yet to do a project without some soft wax streaks. I read somewhere that you should soften the wax to almost a liquid (i’m going to use a make-shift double broiler next time), then apply. I also found that not wiping it as you go along and then treating it as one big area and wipe away the wax helped a lot. Also, a second wax coat usually takes care of those awful streaks. For furniture, I just gave up and use a poly instead, unless I’m painting fabric- then of course, a soft wax.
I wanted to get your take on furniture painting with you do not like the distressed chippy weathered glaze look. I like furniture that has a solid durable look to it. I’m undecided on Sheen now. Which type of paint do you think is best for this? I love the idea of chalk paint and its ease-of-use but I don’t want to disttress it so I don’t know if there is a point to using it I might even want a bit of shine which would mean using a satin or semi polyacrylic over top of it. I’m looking to paint my dining room chairs if that makes any difference so durability is very important I have three children.
thanks
Hi Erin,
I would definitely recommend General Finishes Milk Paint based on the look that you want. It’s way more durable than chalk paint, and it still easy to use. I just lightly sand the surface I am going to paint and it adheres really well. Then, you can go over it with a Polyacrylic (or GF makes an acrylic topcoat in all finishes – from flat to gloss). I found it holds up really well. I’ve painted chairs, kitchen and bathroom cabinets, and our nursery furniture with it and it’s holding up well. I hope that helps! Let me know if you have any other questions.
Have you tried using Fusion Mineral Paint? And if so, how does it compare to the others?
Hi Gina. I actually have not tried it, but it is on my list to do, because I have a couple of other paints I want to write about and I’d love to include that one as well. Sorry I’m of no help with this one, yet!
Hi Jenny,
I only recently discovered you and all I can say is you are a goldmine of information. I’m 68 and only now taking a more serious approach to painting furniture. I “studied” your paint primer and I’m still not sure what brands to look for in Acrylic Paint for my projects. Lowe’s gave me Zinsser Perma-White mold and mildew proof interior paint. Is that one of the paints to use on bookcase and small wooden projects?
Thank you,
Barbara
Hi Barbara. Thanks for your kind words, and for taking the time to comment and ask your question. I’ve never used the Zinsser primer you mentioned, but I really don’t think you’ll need that level of mold and mildew protection on small pieces of furniture. I’ve heard good things about Zinsser Smart Prime as a great primer, and it’s water based, which makes it so much easier to clean up. As for acrylic paint, I would recommend General Finishes. I’m always impressed every time I use it. I hope that helps.
Why do you label the Valspar Optimus as a latex? It is acrylic. The specs clearly state so.
Good question, and although I don’t fully understand the chemical compositions, I do know that basically all latex paints are actually acrylic latex. Some paints have higher levels of acrylic resins, which increase durability and adhesion, and in the picture, I labeled that as an “acrylic” paint. The names are so confusing though, and in my attempt to simply it all, it did come across as incorrect. Thanks for bringing up this good point!
Such an informative post! I’m getting ready to paint an old metal file cabinet with maybe an eggshell finish. What do you suggest. I’m also painting an outdoor wooden bench with no distressed or chic look. What are your ideas?
Hi Blair. Thanks for your questions. For the wooden bench, I would make sure to use an outdoor paint. Is it unfinished wood that you’re painting over? If so, I’d recommend a latex outdoor paint. Or, DecoArt makes an outdoor paint as well – I used it on this table that is outside. As for the metal file cabinet, enamel paint (spray paint is the easiest way to use this type of paint) will definitely work, or a chalk based paint should stick really well too. An acrylic paint should also work, but I would be sure to scuff up the entire surface before painting to be sure it adheres. Good luck on your projects!
Great idea on the metal file cabinet! I may have to steal that.
Hi there
I am looking to repaint wood shelves in our house. Latex paint has a finish that sticks to things, so i am looking for the best recommendation that won’t stick to stuff and that can clean off easily if it gets dirty.
What paint would be your choice for something like this? they will mostly be used for storage but we wanted something fun, that looks nice and also can take withstand things being put on it.
Thanks!
Stacey
I love acrylic paint – I use it for dressers and pieces of furniture that objects will be sitting on. That’d be my personal choice I think!
This post is so so amazingly helpful! Thank you!
I’m so glad it was helpful, Ashley. Thanks for taking the time to comment and let me know. 🙂
Hi! I’ve just aquired an antique table and chairs I’m so excited to refinish, but I’d love some advice to get me going. I’ve refinished other things, but I don’t want to mess this one up! It’s got a dark Walnut finish currently. I think I’m going to use a gel stain on the top of the table take it slightly darker and richer. Then use the acrylic top coat on it. For the legs and chairs I want to do a slightly distressed white. I’m thinking of using chalk paint with the acrylic top coat. Does that sound like the right choice to you? Do I need to use something between the original stain and the chalk paint so that the stain doesn’t bleed through? I want some of that dark stain to pop through where it is distressed so a primer doesn’t sound right. I was thinking a layer of the acrylic top coat would help but then will the chalk paint adhere to the top coat? What are your thoughts? Thank so much!
Hi Jenny – it sounds like a gorgeous piece! I think your ideas to use gel stain on the top and use an acrylic top coat should work perfectly, as will chalk paint with an acrylic top coat. As for bleed through, it’s very possible that you can just paint with chalk paint and there will no bleed through at all – it really depends on if the finish is in tact (and what was used for the finish originally). I would do a test on a part of the piece. If it’s going to bleed through, you’ll notice almost right away after it dries. If it does bleed through, I’d recommend using a clear sealer so you can still distress down to the wood without dealing with a white primer. Using a clear acrylic won’t block bleed through, you’ll need a different product. (I’ve used clear Shellac or Miss Mustard Seed Tough Coat and both work well). Then, after it dries just paint over with chalk paint as normal and finish with acrylic topcoat. But, hopefully you won’t even need to worry about bleed through in the first place! I hope that helps. Have fun!
Thanks for the article! I painted my old armoire for my son’s room recently using Amy Howard chalk paint. I really liked it at first, but it has already started chipping! I cleaned it well beforehand and applied a wax when I was done, but I have to think that I should have done something else to avoid the chipping. Do I need to start completely over, or is there a way to touch up the chips and apply another layer? If so, what! Thank you so much!
Hi Jenny. I apologize for the long overdue response. I think your comment got lost in the shuffle somewhere, and I’m going to find ones I missed along the way. Anyway, I’m surprised that it chipped, too. I’ve never used Amy Howard chalk paint, but every other brand I’ve used of chalk paint I haven’t had problems with chipping (unless I painted over something that was previously painted and that paint chipped, thus taking the chalk paint with it). I would assume that brand of paint would have great adhesion too, but I don’t really know from any of my experiences. To repair chipping, I sometimes will use my sander to sand down the chip so there is no longer a ridge between the paint and the place without paint. You could also use wood filler to fill in the chip gouges as well. You should be able to repaint the piece right over your wax (since it’s already cured). This time (if you haven’t started working on it yet), maybe try clear acrylic as the topcoat. My favorite brand is General Finishes top coat – it should help withstand any dings and such. Hope that helps in some way. Let me know if you have other questions!
Hi Jenny!
I am looking to find other brands of acrylic paint and can’t seem to pull any up. The brand you’ve mentioned above is not available in Canada.
I look forward to hearing back!
Sarah
Hi Sarah. Good question! I’m pretty certain all of these brands are acrylic based: Fusion Mineral Paint, Black Dog Salvage, Mud Paint. I think Fusion is a Canadian-based company? I think? If you sign up as a subscriber in this post, I have a handy printable chart that lists the characteristics of the paints, as well as a lot of common brands for different types. That might be helpful, too!
I am so scared to try milk paint! Okay, I’m going to do it 🙂 I have a dresser that has been waiting on a little TLC.
Last year I painted my dresser with a dark gray chalk paint. I’m not a big fan of it because it is hard to clean. I recently moved and the place I’m renting has dark walls and was hoping to paint over it with a white paint. I don’t mind if the gray is still lightly visible. Would it be possible to paint over the chalk paint with another type and what type do you recommend?
Hi Maria. Chalk paint is very easy to paint over. Just a quick question, did you use a topcoat over the paint? If not, that might be why it’s hard to clean. Chalk paint without a topcoat seems to collect and retain dirt and marks very easily. Either way, though, you can paint over it! I’d recommend using an acrylic paint, or even going over it with a white chalk paint. If you want it to be easier to clean, just do a topcoat with clear acrylic, or furniture paste wax. I hope that helps!
Hi, I’m just wondering about Acrylic vs. latex. I’ve painted a few pieces of furniture over the years, I jump between chalk paint, latex and spray. When I think of Acrylic I think of craft paint mainly, ya know the ones in the little tubes for .50 at walmart lol. But when you say in your post “Acrylic” are you referring to the GF Milk paint specifically? Or are there other options in acrylic? It seems like a lot of blogs/sites I’ve been to use acrylic/latex interchangeably like they are one in the same. I’ve got a dresser that I’m going to paint for my daughter and I want her to be the guinea pig, and test it out on hers first 🙂
It’s super confusing, especially because paint manufacturers are really starting to find the best blends for paints and don’t just keep to one paint type base. A lot of paints are now acrylic-latex blends (and a lot of wall paints are actually this blend now). Yes, acrylic based paints are just like the small bottles of acrylic paints at the craft store. I’ve found that most paints targeted specifically for furniture are now either chalk paint or furniture paint designed to give a more durable and shinier finish (these paints are generally acrylic based). A few other paints besides General Finishes that are primarily acrylic based (as best my research can find, because paint companies tend to be a bit inconspicious about the composition of their paint) are Fusion Mineral Paint, Black Dog Salvage Paint, Mud Paint, and Americana Satin Enamels (this is one of the same companies that makes the smaller bottles of acrylic paint at craft stores). I hope that helps some; good luck on the dresser!
Thank you for that extremely concise, well-organized, and informative article. You are a talented writer as well as DIY artist! This was exactly the information I was looking for, and it was a pleasure to see it presented so well.
Thanks so much for your positive feedback, Terry. I felt a bit overwhelmed when writing this post as there is so much information and it could be presented in many different ways, but I’m glad you found the format helpful.
Hi! I just found your blog and really appreciate this paint type comparison. I need some advice: I’m wanting to refinish a big dining table for our new house. It’s kind of ornate so I’m hoping refinishing it in a more contemporary way will make it more our style. I’m wanting to do a wood top (planning to use a general finishes gel stain) and then do the table legs and chairs in a gray blue to match the fabric I bought to recover the chair seats. I was planning to use Annie Sloan chalk paint but now I’m not sure if that’s what would look best. I’m a total newbie to refinishing (I refinished our old table with a minwax polyshade and spray paint. It looked pretty good but it wasn’t very durable) and I want it to look nice and stay that way (is that possible with 4 kids??). Brush strokes will drive me crazy. I do have access to a paint sprayer. Also, because of the ornateness I’m not sure how easy it will be to sand (the table top could be sanded but I was told that’s not necessary with gel stain, correct?), which is why I originally thought chalk paint. I don’t plan to do any distressing on it, I just want a nice clean finish. What do you suggest?
I’m sorry for the delay in getting back to you. You’re right in that gel stain can be applied right to the table top over existing finish, as long as you are planning to go with a darker color (rather than lighter). As for painting the legs, I actually refinished a dining table (but it’s in our kitchen and used every day by our family, which included three young (and destructive) kids.) I used General Finishes Milk Paint (although it’s not actually milk paint, it’s acrylic based) and love the results. I lightly sanded first and then brushed it on and it adhered very well. You could also easily spray it (and I’ve always been happy with how GF Milk Paint sprays on, just be sure to thin it out first). I did use an acrylic topcoat (I’m guessing it was General Finishes Flat Topcoat, but I can’t remember specifically. I think I did two coats just to help with wear and tear. The paint has held up very well (it’s been over two years since it was painted) and the only place where the paint is wearing is right at the bottom of one edge where my daughter’s high chair was pushed into it day after day. I’ve been meaning to touch it up and just haven’t got the chance! I hope that helps some, if you haven’t already finished your project. 🙂 Have fun!
What topcoat would you recommend for chalk painting a dresser that one would be using as a changing table in a nursery?
Thank you so much!
Hi! I’d recommend a clear acrylic finish (General Finishes Topcoat is my favorite). I’d recommend 2-3 coats since it will be a high use piece. I hope that helps!
Hello Jenny!
Thank you for this post, as well as all your insight and helpful answers. It really makes such a difference!
I read quite a few of your posts, just like this one, but have still my worries about a project.
It is about an old wooden chest of drawers. It has a clear topcoat and dark stain. I would like to paint it white, either matte or eggshell finish. My thought: degreese, sand, apply base (shellac?), sand, paint in either chalk paint and wax or use an acrylic 2 in 1 paint.
Now, because of durability, I tend to go towards the acrylic paint. But do I have to apply a base coat? Would shellac work or is a speciality one, as you mentioned, needed? How about a topcoat, as I really worry about the quality of a two in one product. Will it still look classy with a little sheen or look like newly bought from a massproducing company? Will I be able to add acrylic details on top and do I have to clear coat them, too? The milkpaint is fascinating, because I like the soft-looking finish. But is it worth it? Or just sweep a tablespoon or two of chalk powder into the two in one acrylic? ????
Oof, all these details that need thought. Could I please get advice from art-master Jenny? ????
Thank you for all your hard work and sharing your wisdom!
– Lola
Where do you buy these paints? Nothing like these at Lowe’s. Is hobby lobby a better place?
Most speciality furniture paints are found at smaller shops. General finishes I’ve seen at my local Ace Hardware, along with a local Benjamin Moore store. I’m starting to see a lot of the bigger paint manufacturers (that you’d find at home improvement stores) comes out with furniture and cabinet paint. I believe Valspar has one (which I know Lowes carries) and Behr has one too (at Home Depot). I still need to try them out though, so I can’t speak to how well they work. (However, looking at the make-up of the paint, they look fairly similar and might be worth a shot.)
I’m late to your very helpful article and want to say thank you for all the amazing tips and advice. I was wondering if you’d done any painting with Rustoleum chalk paint in the spray can. I want to paint over some old kitchen cupboards to repurpose them to use in the laundry room and l’m a bit nervous about getting started.😳
Hi Amanda! I apologize for my delayed response. I have used Rustoleum chalk paint in a spray, but only on smaller pieces. I think it would work well on cabinets. It adheres well to most surfaces!
Hi Jenny,
Your comparison is really helpful. I’m taking on a the project of painting a pine armoire that was my dads. I want it to look a little “worn” but not rustic. I have sanded it already but am really not sure what kind of paint to use on it. I’ve done lots of projects over the years but have never tried to make something look old; and don’t want to ruin the piece!
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Lynn! I bet you’ve probably already finished your project by now. If so, what did you end up using? I love hearing about projects! Are you planning to sand at edges/raised areas a bit to give it a worn look? My initial recommendation would be that an acrylic paint would probably work well. Chalk paint can easily be sanded, but it’s honestly not my favorite paint for furniture. If you’re looking for a “shabby-chic finish it is the paint to go with though. Any paint can be sanded a bit to give a worn look, and acrylic (something like General Finishes Milk Paint or Fusion Mineral Paint) would look nice as a bit worn, but still would give a nice durable finish.
wow… I am glad I found your website, You have answered all the questions I had about choosing the perfect paint for each project in one single sitting. Thanks for sharing kindly and easily what you have learned hard for sure. I have not got a chance to go through your entire blog, but I do have some questions about preliminary products needed for starting furniture and cabinet painting and I think you have already spoken about it somewhere, I just need to search a bit. I have never left a comment on any blogs as I am always in rush for getting the answer and go, but I thought I have to do it here to respect all the free information you are giving us here. I really do respect what you are doing and wish you success in all your endeavours.
Keep Shining,
Thank you so much for taking the time to leave such a kind comment! I’m SO glad the information was helpful to you. Please feel free to reach out with questions once you start on your projects. I won’t have the definite answers, but might be able to share some of my experience that could be helpful!
These tips were so incredibly helpful!! I have multiple pieces I plan to paint and this was just the explaniation I needed before heading to the paint store!!
I’m so glad it was helpful! I find that the type of piece determines what type of paint I use, so rather than recommending one brand of paint, it helps to know about each!
Your information was really helpful. Thank you very much! I have a question what type of paint you will recommend for a front door (outdoor) ? It receives the sun of the morning.
Thanks in advance!
Hi Claudia! I personally only have experience with using one brand of paint for my front door. It’s called Modern Master Front Door Paint. I painted my door at least 7 years ago and the paint is holding up beautifully and it hasn’t faded at all. (Here’s an Amazon affiliate link to check it out: https://amzn.to/3PANxmx ). If you want a custom color, you’ll have to go to the home improvement store and grab a can of that brand’s door paint (rated for exterior use). Every brand has an enamel paint that works best on doors – I would use that special type of paint over any of these types of furniture paint, personally.
This post has been super useful as to narrowing down what paints I should look at using! I’m a newbie and upcycling a coffee table. I have sanded it and now am trying to figure out what paint would be best to use. I want to paint almost a white frame around the top of the table (the middle is a gorgeous wood so I think it would look lovely exposed), and then paint the rest of it white too. How do I know which paint can be wiped down with water without smudging as it is a coffee table? Is there also a particular top coat I should be using? Any advice would be HUGELY appreciated!
Thanks!
Hi there! I’m sorry for the delay in my response. I think because you are keeping the wood exposed in the middle, I would use an acrylic paint like General Finishes, Silk, or even a chalk paint (Behr makes a great one available at Home Depot in any shade of white!). You may have to paint a few coats no matter what you use since you’re covering wood to white. Then, use a water-based topcoat (Miniwax and Varthane both sell these at home improvement stores called water based polyurethane – or all specialty companies make water-based topcoats as well). Choose a satin finish (or even semi-gloss) so it can be easily wiped down and cleaned. best of luck on your project!
Great job. Thank you. I feel prepared.
Glad to hear it. You’ve got this!
Hi Jenny! I have a question for you. First off I want to thank you for this article as I have referred back to it numerous times over to past 3 years during a complete business renovation I did and here I am again! 🙂 I am painting chair legs for client chairs at very high traffic manicure tables in a salon and I need them to be as bomb proof as can be. I’m wondering if the Alkyd based paint would be the best option to go with? However, I would like to possibly brush either Modern Masters Masters Metallic paint or PPG Metallic paint over certain areas to highlight them. Do you think this is possible? Is the Alkyd my best option? If so what top coat would be best and the most durable do you think? Thank you so much!!
Hi Paige. Thank you for kind words AND for using this as a resource and coming back to it! I’ve had to update it over the years as paint brands change, but hopefully it’s still just as helpful. I totally understand what you’re looking for with table legs – sounds like they are going to get beat up. I have never tried using a topcoat over alkyd paint, and I’ve heard you aren’t supposed to, but I think I’ve seen people still use it. I painted my kitchen table legs with Sherwin Williams Emerald (alkyd urethane) with no topcoat and have been really pleased with the durability. I have young kids slamming chairs into them often and I think there have only been two tiny scraps off an edge. But, I still think that painting with an acrylic paint and then doing an additional topcoat would be the way to go. You can also build up the clear coat with a couple of coats to give extra durability. General Finishes topcoat is my all-time favorite (but pricey). I was pleasantly surprised by Varthane triple thick polyurethane (water-based). It applies thick but still dries really nicely and does give a thick topcoat in one coat. I hope that helps. Feel free to reach out with other questions. Best of luck on your project!
Thank you so much for your info! I thought the alkyd would be best, I’m so glad I asked! Is there a specific acrylic paint you’d use or any of them in your article? 🙂